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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Solidoodle 3 upgrade/redone]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/16083/" />
	<updated>2017-05-16T01:40:55Z</updated>
	<generator>PunBB</generator>
	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/16083/solidoodle-3-upgraderedone/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Solidoodle 3 upgrade/redone]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/135451/#p135451" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I would highly recommend doing the direct driven Y-rod mod as well. I had a lot of problems with out of roundness until I did it. </p><p><a href="http://tomhorsley.com/hardware/solidoodle/solidoodle-ydirect.html">http://tomhorsley.com/hardware/solidood … irect.html</a></p><p>I&nbsp; modded my solidoodle 3 a lot as well, pcb bed, e3d v6, lawsy carriage and replacement rods and bearings, 8mm threaded z-axis rod with anti backlash nut, hobgoblin extruder hob, 1/32 step stepper controller and 1/32 stepper motor for extruder, full enclosure and top spool mount, and new power supply. Next I&#039;m going to mount the power supply onto the back of the printer and put a switch on it and then finally clean up all my wiring and make it neat. All of those upgrades I would recommend, it&#039;s basically an entirely new machine at that point haha.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[paramite12]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/694/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-05-16T01:40:55Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/135451/#p135451</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Solidoodle 3 upgrade/redone]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/131806/#p131806" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Hello</p><p>I have been playing with 3 new printer since last 2 years, and my solidoodle was left aside...</p><p>now I&#039;m trying to refurbish it completly.</p><p>so far I have changed over the years:</p><p>-lawsy carriage.<br />-E3d V6 hotend<br />-new heat bed (larger stronger)<br />-glass bed<br />-bed stabiliser (sort of)<br />-titan extruder-new board casing plus fan.<br />-new power supply.</p><p>-Self lubrifiant bearing <br /><a href="https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568497-bushing-8x15x24">https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/produ … ng-8x15x24</a></p><p>and added another fan on the extruder stepper.</p><p>Now I&#039;m gonna take it completly apart and clean the case (probably paint it in black too)</p><p>I&#039;m looking for idea on what I can do, or add to improve it.</p><br /><p><strong>What I wan tto do&nbsp; is</strong></p><p>Be able to swap hotend easly. spesificly from 1.75 to 3 mm (probably need to be bowden)<br />I recently bought a microdelta rework and they have a tiny board to plug the fan, the termistor the hotend ect... and a centrale cable, the design is fantastique. </p><p>I would like a less complex but similar idea. </p><p>(anyone able to help me do it?)</p><p>I like to do a core xy conversion (does the one for the sd4 is compatible for the SD3)</p><p>also I know that the bed stability is a issus, but I don&#039;t realy know how to adress it.<br />I &#039;was thinking about going the bigbox way... or somthing like it.</p><p>that lead me to the next one, my new udelta rework as a custom bord that is fantastic and realy cheap</p><p><a href="https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568620-emotronic-board.">https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/produ … nic-board.</a></p><br /><p>What do you think?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[sigiel]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2977/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2017-01-30T16:14:55Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/131806/#p131806</id>
		</entry>
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