Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249

I made a similar heatbed and it did wonders to prevent warping. The temp I reach when using less than 30W is above 'softening'. When I remove the test-strip it becomes one straight (so so..) line.
I use no temperature regulator.

Hi
please what are the dimensions I need in terms of diameter, spindle hole and width fpr a generic spool that can fit exactly on the XYZ NFC tag holder and spindle?
Are Makerbot spools compatible with the Junior for example?
Is it worth paying more that £15 for 1kg of PLA or is all the basic PLA very similar?
Rupert

Not sure which XYZ printer you have, but have you ever considered moving the spool outside the printer? I have done this with my JR and I know people have done this with their Mini's. It's one of the simplest mods and makes using third party filament a breeze.

kr15_uk wrote:

Ladies and gents, just don't forget that Carbonfill, Woodfill and even glow in the dark is eating off your copper nozzle. Hence on Jr you can't simply swap the nozzle without changing whole print head - particle filled filament printing may become fairly costly short lived dream.

I'm sorry if I ask the obvious, I'm totally new to 3d-printing and different filaments... What exactly do you mean with "eating off your copper nozzle"? Is it that it gets cloggy or destroyed by overheat or something else?

kr15_uk wrote:

3. ABS with heatbed - quite good results due to Jr design (enclosure) If you are interested into adding heatbed to your Jr - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1931575

Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249

Particle filled filaments are extremely abrasive and act like sand paper as they pass through the nozzles. Brass nozzles like most printers have are a very soft metal and the abrasive effect of the filament literally tears away small parts of the nozzle. Mind you the action is microscopic and takes a while to show any noticeable damage. But I can assure you if you run a full spool you will notice.

As for a bed heater, it needs to be the same size as the bed. Yes it will keep most of the heat localized to the heater area.

Ladies and gents, just don't forget that Carbonfill, Woodfill and even glow in the dark is eating off your copper nozzle. Hence on Jr you can't simply swap the nozzle without changing whole print head - particle filled filament printing may become fairly costly short lived dream.

I'm sorry if I ask the obvious, I'm totally new to 3d-printing and different filaments... What exactly do you mean with "eating off your copper nozzle"? Is it that it gets cloggy or destroyed by overheat or something else?

Do you think it's possible to glue/tape a small heater like this to the underside of the printing bed to warm it up a bit to prevent warping with larger PLA-prints? Will the temperature spread equally because of the aluminium plate (?) or will it only be hot near the heater?
Heater: https://www.conrad.se/V%E4rmefolie-Ther … 07_0506031
Controller: https://www.conrad.se/Temperaturbrytare … ;pi=191249

I've bought a wood filament time ago, but it's just PLA with "wood brown" color. Finishigs are just like PLA, but i want something with real wood finishings.

Advices will be much appreciated.
Regards!.

Edit: Answering myself, by going to the correct Forum section:
Soliforum -> Filament -> Hatchbox Wood filament
Soliforum -> Filament -> Where can I buy wood filament?
Regards!

Regards!.

Has anyone tried the inland filaments?  They're really well priced, and seem to have good reviews everywhere I've read.

I buy them all the time from the local Microcenter. I have never had issues with that brand. I do however use almost exclusively PETG.

Has anyone tried the inland filaments?  They're really well priced, and seem to have good reviews everywhere I've read.

I don't sorry.

Anyone tested out what is called "Advanced Pla"?, are the following measurements true?

Edit: And this one? Glass Filled x1.9 flexibility

Regards!.

I think that each command is for a single extruder (right & left), but i didn't tested it, i'm just adding those 2 lines to all files i modify.

Wrong! As found on Gitlab Threedub by James, thank you for threedub James!.

Regards!.

I open the gcode with any text editor, and i mean "any". Just after the last comment line on header i add 2 lines "Comment lines are the ones preceded by ';'":
Go to quoted post

A: Maybe they're not comment lines since changes on lines preceded by ";" are recognized by the printer. I changed that way the expected filament usage to 0.35 (less than a milimeter), and wile printing LCD shows 1 minute left and 100% completed, but the tag substracted more than 3 meters as expected.
B: Temperatures can be inyected at the beginning of the file as well.

And i take this time to thank you for all your support and time expent in the DaVinci Jr World.
Your NFC box to store the module, antenna and the TAG is great, i'm using it a while from now. It's saving me money cause since i'm using it i don't have any TAG errors MID print. Also you have pointed me to threedub and Cura. I don't like cura too much, but i've been watching how cura set things in gcodes and maded my way to fix the only thing that really disturbs me from XYZPrinting "THE DAMNED TEMP NFC LIMIT".

Best Regards!.
and thanks again!
CoolArts.