UpperGrade wrote:Hello since I got my Da Vinci back in the beginning of 2015 I did some mods to it.
- I fitted a E3D v6 hotend with a custom carriage
- Converted it to a bowden extruder
- Modded the case
- Installed a flex coupler between the Z motor and the m8 threaded rod
- Installed a FR4 permanent printing surface
- Fixed the loose bed and bushingThe prints look amazing no Z wobble or anything but...
If I print faster than 35mm/s I can clearly see ghosting in the prints.
I think I am reaching the limits of its mechanics.
If I print infill it 80 mm/s I can clearly see the Y rod endings I also think that the 8mm rods and the m8 threaded rod are limiting its max print quality. My question is what if I would drill out the holes where the smooth rods for the Y Axis are connected to the case to 12mm and fit custom Y carriage which fit lm12luu bearings. Same for the Z Axis (12mm rods and lm12uus) I would build a new bed carriage out of 20 20 aluminium profiles and fit a proper lead screw along with a anti-backlash nut. Do you think it would improve the print quality alot so that it is worth doing it?You would be better off gutting it and using what parts you can to build from scratch. Use 2020 or larger for a frame. The sheet metal frame in the XYZ machine will just start to flex if you make the other parts more ridgid. You also nay be finding your teaching the limit for the 12 volt motors and drivers. You may need to go to 24 volt motors. The 12 volts just dont have the needed torque to stop near instantly and change direction.
I think I will give it a try I dont have the money or the time at the moment to build a new one I meight end up buying this one https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product … 38291.html and reworking the z table.
]]>Hello since I got my Da Vinci back in the beginning of 2015 I did some mods to it.
- I fitted a E3D v6 hotend with a custom carriage
- Converted it to a bowden extruder
- Modded the case
- Installed a flex coupler between the Z motor and the m8 threaded rod
- Installed a FR4 permanent printing surface
- Fixed the loose bed and bushingThe prints look amazing no Z wobble or anything but...
If I print faster than 35mm/s I can clearly see ghosting in the prints.
I think I am reaching the limits of its mechanics.
If I print infill it 80 mm/s I can clearly see the Y rod endings I also think that the 8mm rods and the m8 threaded rod are limiting its max print quality. My question is what if I would drill out the holes where the smooth rods for the Y Axis are connected to the case to 12mm and fit custom Y carriage which fit lm12luu bearings. Same for the Z Axis (12mm rods and lm12uus) I would build a new bed carriage out of 20 20 aluminium profiles and fit a proper lead screw along with a anti-backlash nut. Do you think it would improve the print quality alot so that it is worth doing it?
You would be better off gutting it and using what parts you can to build from scratch. Use 2020 or larger for a frame. The sheet metal frame in the XYZ machine will just start to flex if you make the other parts more ridgid. You also nay be finding your teaching the limit for the 12 volt motors and drivers. You may need to go to 24 volt motors. The 12 volts just dont have the needed torque to stop near instantly and change direction.
]]>The prints look amazing no Z wobble or anything but...
If I print faster than 35mm/s I can clearly see ghosting in the prints.
I think I am reaching the limits of its mechanics.
If I print infill it 80 mm/s I can clearly see the Y rod bending I also think that the 8mm rods and the m8 threaded rod are limiting its max print quality. My question is what if I would drill out the holes where the smooth rods for the Y Axis are connected to the case to 12mm and fit custom Y carriage which fit lm12luu bearings. Same for the Z Axis (12mm rods and lm12uus) I would build a new bed carriage out of 20 20 aluminium profiles and fit a proper lead screw along with a anti-backlash nut. Do you think it would improve the print quality alot so that it is worth doing it?