Simply put, no problems. I have hit the retract better than expected. I find the change of the layer is no longer, the rather thin support stands at full height without any error and the minimal threads the nozzle has still pulled after I practically in the end has no more one can almost blow away ....: cool:
Now runs something new with a different PLA and filigreer ... see.
]]>Partially, it now behaves like an airbrush nozzle. Even with this nozzle I need, despite the completely different construction and the much larger mass of the nozzle significantly higher temperatures under pressure, so up to 30 ° C. One multiplies immediately if it is too cold when the sheets are printed only interrupted. The layers are set just as precisely as with an airbrush nozzle and the flow setting must be made as well as sensitive. If it fits all, you get excellent smooth top players.
But what I still fight is the very unusual behavior for the retract. I now have no more and relax the Bowden only and not even completely. Currently, I pull 0.2mm less than the game of the Bowden is back and that even with a relatively low speed. There are still virtually no threads. The interplay of the Extra Restart Distance and Coast at End I have not really. With the Extra Restart Distance I am now already very minimal plus and Coast at End I have minimized to 0.1mm. That seems however with many small Retrakts still not sufficient to be able to print even fine prints, especially if many retractions are very short successively. This is somewhat illogical, which should be adjusted just a slight overdosing, but I get that out.
Currently, however, I already print the forearms and hands to a doll. Since I then have the direct comparison.
For this I measured them visually and with the USB microscope.
Here is the nozzle tip in which is a hole with exactly 0.3mm. It does not look nearly as rough as the Chinese stuff. Tongue
I have deliberately not further pointed, since it would otherwise become too sensitive.
Also inside it is in my opinion quite well as one can recognize in the two pictures. The recognizable scratches from drilling are minimal.
Also the cone fits to the tip. The heel at the end around the hole is only an optical illusion, as the cone is steadily steeper and there are also a few very fine grooves.
With the production itself, I am so completely satisfied since everything has worked as I imagined. Now I'm just waiting for my Hyper-Core to finish with its program until next week and then the nozzle is installed. If she then does what I hope I will still make one and to coat.
]]>Here is the link to the coater:
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Today I first made my canon drill.
I have put it into my tiller, and carefully cut out a light hollow chimney almost half of the drill.
After the hardening and tempering (again with warmth of the hardness so that he does not fall immediately) I had to sharpen it only with an Akansas grindstone and some oil, which is quite simple through the hollow flute.
Now he is ready and you have to be careful in dealing with it properly. This is not only pointed, but also sharp as a razor blade ....
The reaming with the cannon drill was still the simplest, but as a first hole with a 0.3mm drill 2.5mm deep clean without breaking it off and then from the other side stepwise before to drill and the small hole have to meet perfectly Was not so simple. The rubbing against it already, That needs only a little patience, but functions very simply.
Now I just have to see how I get a few shavings from the inside, which I still see under the magnifying glass ...
]]>Since I have had very good experiences with airbrush nozzles, as well as once with stepped holes in nozzles, I will try this time a nozzle with a long cone, which should be as polished as inside.
This is best achieved with a canon drill. Unfortunately, these are, in the sizes required for this, almost unbeatable, if one finds one at all. So I make myself a silver-steel, which I will then also harden.
Let's see if I succeed.
I began with a 2.5mm silver steel to slightly more than the length of a nozzle corresponds to 1.95mm Turning off, which was still quite easy.
I got the cone by rubbing it carefully with a blue rubber polishing disc and a Proxxon Minnimot under a magnifying glass. It was my intention to make this cone slightly arched, which makes the drill much more stable. Since you have to be careful with such small parts, the tip does not have to overheat so it takes its time. After half an hour of work, it looked like this. An old nozzle for comparison behind it.
I hope the cannon drill for nozzle sizes to get below 0.2mm usable. The tip now has a diameter <0.1mm.
Next I did not come today, but maybe tomorrow. Then the really difficult part begins. Then I have to sharpen the cone right down to the middle. Hardening and sharpening. A nice finger-play, according to my taste.
Greeting Edwin
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