I had the same problem but with a DaVinci 2.0 duoA.
I made a shortcut while fixing the two fans when I was printing... Now fans off, screen down ans full black BUT I have sound !
Do you think I can repare my printer like the DaVinci 1.0 ?
If yes it soule be AWESOME !!!

Please help the newbie with tour knowledge :')

I have scoured the interwebs, dealing with my own problem, and this forum has been such a help to me, at least to get me started.

Background info:
Product: Da Vinci 1.0A (newer rev. mainboard, w/ a microSD, etc.).
Running Repetier firmware and printing PETG like a boss for over a year.

Long story short, I became an unaware victim of the whole "dont use a wire brush to clean the hot end while powered on". Strange, must have been from upgrading to a much bigger/fatter wire brush. I was simply prepping for "the next print" and suddently started getting extruder temperature-related errors, being reported via Simplify3D.

Thus, the poking began, and a vital mistake was made. Out of desperation, I started using tweezers to gently push each wire into the harness (adderall has its quirks.. I forgot to turn the power off beforehand..)

Thus it took quite a bit of research to even determine my own state of affairs (2 damaged components.)

----

Let's talk facts, because I have some interesting information to contribute:

The symptoms:

• NO illuminated 5V LED on the mainboard

• NO LED SCREEN output. None.

Grabbed an AstroAI DT132A Multimeter, and started probing..
 
I discovered 2 damaged components:

• R47

• RV5

There's some chatter, between @dtgamer99 an @carl_m1968, regarding using zero-ohm resistors, or 250mA SMD components, for replacing R47.

The component I ended up ordering for R47:
Mfr. #: 0467.250NR  - Surface Mount Fuses .25 AMP 32V VERY FAST ACTING

The component I ended up ordering for RV5:
Mfr. #: 043801.5WR - Surface Mount Fuses Surface Mount Fuses 32V FA 0603 1.5A

For visitors/readers, please don't go rush to buy those just yet.

Let's just say I am lucky I had to repair RV5 as well.
Upon installing both components (hot air reflow station / soldering iron, solder paste, etc.), the printer seemed delighted to be alive. The 5V debug LED on the mainboard resumed functioning, as well as the display. However, I was skeptical due to the 1.5A part, used to replace the damaged RV5, looked identical to the nearby R57, and I was left considering how the original component, labeled R47 seemed identical to this neighboring R57 component.

Needless to say, within maybe 10 mins of starting a print, the printer stopped printing, stopped moving the extruder, lowered the bed by ~1 inch, and the display reverted to no display. Additionally, the 5V debug LED stopped illuminating.

Now, I had gotten to the point where I cud really give a fuq about this already-broken 4-year old printer. Thus, in the name of science, I replaced the R47 component with the same 1.5A component, used to repair RV5.

In closing, I recommend going for something with higher amperage than 250mA, as it clearly wasn't enough for my tense and purposes.

PS: My printer is running as smooth as silk now and just finished a 4h print.

problem solved, replaced J47 with small inline fuse.

please help me, Have picture by step?
Thanks

Understood,  I'll look for a 250ma fuse.  I soldered a ABS printed fuse holder and currently have a 500ma fuse installed.  The machine started and the LCD is working again.  I was able to print something and all is well but I will change out the fuse with a 250ma one before I turn it on again.

Thanks guys!

mjf55 wrote:

carl_m1968 wrote:

A 500ma is the same as a 1/2 amp and may be too high. The issue is if the fuse does not pop then something will. So you want the very minimum possible to support the circuit. That is why I suggested a .25 aka 1/4 aka 250ma fuse.

Just to add what carl is saying, the resistor size looks to be a 0805 (.08 inch by .05 inch ) and had a power rating of 1/8 watt.  1/8 * 5 v  current rating of .250 A or 250 milli amps. 
Thats why that rating  should be safe to use.  Anything larger will allow more current downstream into and other circuits can fail.

Hi,

I had a similar issue with my 3.3V and have ordered replacement parts. In this instance, would it be possible to use resetting fuse similar to http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/resettabl … s/7874259/ in place if the ones that blow?

Thanks guys!

dtgamer99 wrote:

carl_m1968 wrote:

A .25 amp should be fine, or just get zero ohm resistors just like they had originally.

Carl!

I'm in "almost San Antonio", small world.  Thanks for the information.  I'll look into the zero ohm resistors or I'll use one of the 500ma fuses I have here at home.

Thanks bud!

A 500ma is the same as a 1/2 amp and may be too high. The issue is if the fuse does not pop then something will. So you want the very minimum possible to support the circuit. That is why I suggested a .25 aka 1/4 aka 250ma fuse.

Just to add what carl is saying, the resistor size looks to be a 0805 (.08 inch by .05 inch ) and had a power rating of 1/8 watt.  1/8 * 5 v  current rating of .250 A or 250 milli amps. 
Thats why that rating  should be safe to use.  Anything larger will allow more current downstream into and other circuits can fail.

carl_m1968 wrote:

dtgamer99 wrote:

Hello all!

I ran into this post while looking for a solution to my "LCD Not working" issue.  I bridged the J47 part and my 5V red light turned on! 
So my question is, what do I use as the inline fuse? 

*I had to install an inline fuse for the R271 part a few months ago.  I used a 4amp fuse for that.  Just not sure about the J47.

Please advise.

Edward

A .25 amp should be fine, or just get zero ohm resistors just like they had originally.

Carl!

I'm in "almost San Antonio", small world.  Thanks for the information.  I'll look into the zero ohm resistors or I'll use one of the 500ma fuses I have here at home.

Thanks bud!

A 500ma is the same as a 1/2 amp and may be too high. The issue is if the fuse does not pop then something will. So you want the very minimum possible to support the circuit. That is why I suggested a .25 aka 1/4 aka 250ma fuse.

dtgamer99 wrote:

Hello all!

I ran into this post while looking for a solution to my "LCD Not working" issue.  I bridged the J47 part and my 5V red light turned on! 
So my question is, what do I use as the inline fuse? 

*I had to install an inline fuse for the R271 part a few months ago.  I used a 4amp fuse for that.  Just not sure about the J47.

Please advise.

Edward

A .25 amp should be fine, or just get zero ohm resistors just like they had originally.

Carl!

I'm in "almost San Antonio", small world.  Thanks for the information.  I'll look into the zero ohm resistors or I'll use one of the 500ma fuses I have here at home.

Thanks bud!

Hello all!

I ran into this post while looking for a solution to my "LCD Not working" issue.  I bridged the J47 part and my 5V red light turned on! 
So my question is, what do I use as the inline fuse? 

*I had to install an inline fuse for the R271 part a few months ago.  I used a 4amp fuse for that.  Just not sure about the J47.

Please advise.

Edward

A .25 amp should be fine, or just get zero ohm resistors just like they had originally.

I ran into this post while looking for a solution to my "LCD Not working" issue.  I bridged the J47 part and my 5V red light turned on! 
So my question is, what do I use as the inline fuse? 

*I had to install an inline fuse for the R271 part a few months ago.  I used a 4amp fuse for that.  Just not sure about the J47.

Please advise.

Edward

problem solved, replaced J47 with small inline fuse.

Just so you know and to help others that may run across this thread for help. Connectors and terminals are marked J so J47 would be a connector or terminal. If you look closely the part you replaced is clearly marked R47 which means resistor. That R is a global electronic standard marking as well as is a J for a terminal or connector. Just trying to avoid confusion here if a new owner has your issue and runs across this thread and is desperately trying to find J47 which has nothing to do with this issue nor do I think it even exist.