SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — test print after upgrades

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-11T20:33:13Z

The fiberglass sleeves for the v6/Lite6 have some flex to them, so it is possible that the sleeving contracted a little after insertion.
Remove the thermistor and inspect to be sure the wires are not exposed. If the are, share a pic I would be happy to send you a replacement free of charge.

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-11T00:24:44Z

carl_m1968 wrote:

wardjr wrote:
If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat. Keeping drafts away from the printer helps. I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.
For me ABS seems to do much better if I use my layer that I use for PLA as well. Maybe it causes more unifirm cooling. However I het much better ABS prints with less lifting using a layer fan on an enclosed system.

I wouldn't argue any of this but would add that stable chamber temps inside a fairly tight chamber is an important factor.

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-11T00:12:51Z

wardjr wrote:

If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat. Keeping drafts away from the printer helps. I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.

For me ABS seems to do much better if I use my layer that I use for PLA as well. Maybe it causes more unifirm cooling. However I het much better ABS prints with less lifting using a layer fan on an enclosed system.

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-10T22:26:52Z

If on glass you don't need the Kapton tape, just hairspray.
If you can try 105 for bed heat. Keeping drafts away from the printer helps. I have even resorted to using temporary tape ducts to keep any fans near the extruder from blowing on the print.

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-10T20:04:39Z

So far with my prints at .09878 it has made a HUGE difference in my print quality and mid print layer separations! I'm working through some bed level issues and some corner lifting, but it's getting a lot better!

I'm now printing with the print bed at 100 and with a brim but I'm often times seeing a little bit of print curl. Does anyone have a recommendation of other things to try?

printing on a glass print bed with kapton tape. I find I get better adhesion with hairspray compared to kapton tape though.

Re: test print after upgrades

2016-07-07T21:09:27Z

Can you post some pictures of what you are experiencing?

Judging by the Thing you shared, you are either dealing with bridging or the dome. The bridging can be adjusted in your slicer settings...many people recommend a nozzle fan and very low bridging speeds. If you are having issues with that half dome, try a finer resolution. If you are using a stock 5/16" threaded Z rod, use these layer heights:
SD thread | Translates to
---------------------------------
.09878 | .1mm
.1976 | .2mm
.2963 | .3mm
.3951 | .4mm
.4939 | .5mm
.5997 | .6mm

If you are using a .4mm nozzle, which comes standard on the E3D hotends, I recommend staying below .2963

EDIT: And thank you for the kind words

test print after upgrades

2016-07-07T19:43:23Z

I'm just going to start by saying the best choice I ever made was buying my parts from PrintIt. Their customer service is world class.

I recently upgraded:
E3D Hotend: http://www.printitindustries.com/collec … -assembled
PrintIt Heatbed:http://www.printitindustries.com/collections/frontpage/products/printit-8-x-8-heatbed
Lawsy Carriage:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:104059

Here is a link to the pictures of my test print: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:235280

My major issues is with the overhangs. Anyone have any recommendations of changes I can make? They aren't crazy bad. but not as good as others who have printed the same test print.