Warping is more common when printing with ABS.  The heated bed will reduce the amount of warping.  For PLA, a heated bed is not required (some printers like the Dremel don't have a heated bed and only supports printing with PLA). However, printing PLA on painters tape or a sheet of glass was always hit or miss in getting the parts to stick, especially the bigger parts.  To get reliable prints, I ended up using glue sticks or hair spray most of the time.  With the PEI sheet, I've never had to use any of these.  The only thing I do differently is to set the bed temperature to 50 (PLA)/80 (ABS) since PEI works better when used in conjunction with a heated bed.

im sorry i may have confused my question..
i have used makerbot a lot and had warping with pla. using the tape on the bed.
I was asking how does the heated bed help with pla or abs when its covered by a sheet of that stuff you posted. it seems to me that the heat is lost when covered in a sheet of something. i guess thats what i was asking

I've had a Pro since January and glad I didn't go with the 1.0.  As stated by others, it accepts 3rd party filaments saving $$$ over the long run instead of being locked in to the XYZ cartridges (unless you mod the 1.0 which is probably not advisable for a newbie).  Also, the XYZWare Pro software can read gcode generated by Cura/slicr/Simplify3d.  One thing I would recommend doing is to get a sheet of PEI to put over the aluminum bed.  I've tried painters tape, borosilicate glass, etc. and PEI is by far the best way to get your prints to stick.  After switching to PEI, I haven't had to use glue sticks, hair spray, or ABS juice to get my parts to stick.  It makes things much easier.  You can get a sheet on Amazon and just clip them on with binder clips to the bed http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Na … e_o00_s00.

Glad to hear it!
Only question I have it that I thought the "heated bed" was for the purpose of things sticking and not warping. Is that not correct? I know with the makerbot i have used quite a bit and PLA i always had warp problems with anything over 4-6 inches wide.

I have decided to get the xyz davinci 1.0 PRO thanks for all your advice. I think any one I get will need work so may as well go with one that has a lot of other models so presumable more R&D behind it.
I will he using "simply3d" and doing the fix posted on here about the hot end. as well as anything else I can come up with.

This assumption is actually wrong. I deal daily with Asian companies and their cost cutting practices.

They release more models in hopes people will forget the previous models and mistakes and be under the same assumption as you. The new models are also the same old parts, just restyled, recolored, and so on. I can assure you very little R&D was done as that would add cost. All they do is pick an existing manufacturer, make a few changes so you can't call it is a direct copy and sell it cheap hoping to make money through volume.

Lol just because they make a bunch of different models doesn't mean they know what they're doing lol

you are absolutely right..  but as I said I don't know much about any of them and everyone has their own ideas of what is best on all the available models out there. I am making my own decision based on the feedback I received from you all. I don't think I said they know what they are doing I think I said they are more likely to have more put in to R&D.
I am sure I will have issues with any printer I get.

Yes you can to a point. Depends on your heat break, if the heat climbs to high up the heat break it starts to melt before hitting the hot end and causes jams. I ramp the temp up when I print 70+mm/s

How do you deal with flexibles bending during retraction and causing strings and blobs? This is in regards to a Bowden of course.