Also, SLA topics are coming...
]]>Closet fan eh??
... or just holding back on us.
Work doesn't let me visit home enough to play with all my toys.
I need to post a few more pics of some of the prints I've done.
I also need to post about some of the challenges that SLA printing poses, and the workarounds I found.
Please do because I'm about to learn first hand...
When you do post some challenges/workarounds create a new topic and I will move it to the coming SLA section later.
]]>... or just holding back on us.
I need to post a few more pics of some of the prints I've done.
I also need to post about some of the challenges that SLA printing poses, and the workarounds I found.
]]>Also, SLA topics are coming...
]]>So you're saying it doesn't have a leg to stand on?Glad to hear you are getting great print speed and quality.
That might have been yesterday, but today she's standing her ground.
Amazing what modern plastic surgery can do.... 
are you planning to build a UV oven for curing?
http://m.instructables.com/id/Make-a-VU … 3D-prints/
I would probably use traditional UV bulbs in place of LEDs, though, mainly because it would look way cooler.
I though about it, but then I was looking at Amazon, and I can simply buy a proper UV sterilizer for like $75.
]]>http://m.instructables.com/id/Make-a-VU … 3D-prints/
I would probably use traditional UV bulbs in place of LEDs, though, mainly because it would look way cooler.
]]>The first print I did, came out a bit wrinkled, and even after a couple of hours, it still felt tacky. I left it on the finishing tray overnight, only to find that it had gotten pretty soft, and some smaller parts actually started liquefying. After searching the support site and the forum, I found that I was using the wrong resin type in the settings. I had the right color, but apparently there are 2 types of gray resin, version 1 and version 2. I had selected version 1, when in fact I was using version 2.
So the moral here is to always make sure you selected the correct resin type in the software, it makes a world of difference.
The second test came out almost perfect. I printed one of my favorite models, Domino, which I had previously printed on my SD3. unlike the original FDM print where I had to separate the print into multiple pieces to get it printed, Here I went for a single piece print. The PreForm support generation is excellent, and allows for manual editing.
The only problem is that for some reason, and I haven't yet figured it out, one of the model's legs, failed to print below the knee, so I'll have to print the leg separately. The print this time came out solid, and after the IPA bath, it exhibited little to no surface tackiness. This morning I exposed it to sun for about 1 hour and it cured completely.
To say that the quality is excellent is an understatement. At 0.1mm it's nearly impossible to see any marks with the naked eye. The print speed is excellent. The entire model with supports printed in just under 5 hours. The same thing with have taken nearly 9 hours to print with my SD3.
So here are some photos of the model (missing leg and all) with the full supports, and with some of the supports removed.
Got the printer yesterday, now I have to find a place for it. My work room is so "full of stuff", my wife says I'm a hoarder.
The first thing I noticed though is the smell of some of these resins. The printer came with gray, clear and flexible. While the gray and clear barely have any noticeable odor, the flexible resin is something else entirely. the stuff makes me dizzy.
Anyway, once I clear a place for it, I'll give it a go an post the result.
]]>you also need to leave a hole for extra liquid resin to drain out of any holly items like tanks etc, make sure the hole is at the bottom of object as its being printed.
I learned this years ago when I got a free sample N scale propane delivery truck. it had the cab hollow including window frames with interior and open floor plus the tank had a square hole in bottom. this was an SLS powder model but same thing applies. the place was called 'make my model' and I was one of the 1st 100 people to email them for the deal, still got it in package, it has a fuzzy surface but very thin details and has been my inspiration in my 3D printing.
That was already mentioned in the post:
When printing, the model is actually built upside-down. So even though the resin would naturally drain out of the cavities due to gravity, as the last few layers are printed and the bottom is closed, some resin would still be trapped inside, so a drain hole needs to be provided (you can't see it here, but it's in the area circled in red).
And we learn something new every day
a grade school teacher told us "if we learn anything that we didnt know the day b4 then it was worth waking up for" and you are still moving forward in life. I dread the day I dont learn something lol guess thats end of the road ;^P
]]>I learned this years ago when I got a free sample N scale propane delivery truck. it had the cab hollow including window frames with interior and open floor plus the tank had a square hole in bottom. this was an SLS powder model but same thing applies. the place was called 'make my model' and I was one of the 1st 100 people to email them for the deal, still got it in package, it has a fuzzy surface but very thin details and has been my inspiration in my 3D printing.
]]>Here are a couple of shots showing the support it generates both outside and inside the model.
When printing, the model is actually built upside-down. So even though the resin would naturally drain out of the cavities due to gravity, as the last few layers are printed and the bottom is closed, some resin would still be trapped inside, so a drain hole needs to be provided (you can't see it here, but it's in the area circled in red).
Oh, one last thing. The speed is about 2.5 times faster than my SD3 at the same resolution (0.1mm). The same model oriented the same way, would take about 9 hours to print with supports and about 4:30 hours without any supports.
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