But every time I post something, all I hear from you is how you can do it better, or think that it needs to be done differently, because what I did either didn't make any sense to you, or it's not scientific enough.

So, you obviously don't agree with my methods.  That's fine.  You can go about doing it like you want to, while I'll keep doing it my way.

Another way of saying this is: to each his own.  Nothing more, nothing less.

I mean I could go about and tell you why most photography studios use a staging area for their subjects, and that the camera setup and photographer are NOT inside the staging area.

But instead of doing that, I'll let you go ahead and do it your way, because frankly there's no substitute for finding things out for yourself.

Ok then, you go about it your way, I'll keep doing it my way.

what is your problem lately? I am just sharing what the rest of the world does to resolve similar problems to ours (as a Special Interest Group=SIG on 3D printing and related subjects). its not some contest on who knows best about what or any unwritten rules on how to, Forums and Groups like Soliform is not about that. they are for all members to share and learn from each other how to learn what to do to fix issues and best enjoy our mutual hobby/interests in a 'friendly' manner.

of coarse nobody has to take any advice or do anything others post that is a given. so I dont understand what this post I quoted of yours is addressing other than an expression of dislike of any posts I make the last couple of months for some reason. these type posts back and forth do nothing to help members of the Forum.

all my posts above have been to give all members help on how to improve their operation of the Scanner and find items to do so. no discredit or hijacking etc of the OP/Topic but rather added input to help us all get to this level of good scans and maybe better with less fiddling every time we do a scan. we all have the same goal here. and our posts along with our 'team work' to combine our efforts to achieve those Goals, not just see who can do it or win 1st place at it or whatever.

but if my idea of what this forum is about is wrong then please feel free to enlighten us all of its correct/true purpose, as it may be different from the other 200 such Forums/Groups I am a member of the last several years.

n2ri wrote:

gonna need a bigger tent than that 9" one.

You only need to enclose the turntable and the model, you don't need to enclose the whole scanner.

then how can you block unwanted light/reflections or control lighting of the model? thats how Professionals get great results every time with portraits by using studios indoors with total control of lighting. outdoors is only for subjects you cant move indoors. plus you can protect others eyes from stray laser beams or even seeing it from corner of eyes like welding flash can damage the Retina. if no protective eye wear/goggles is worn. even looking at the laser line reflection with naked Eyes can be damaging, 1st symptom is a slight headache same as when welding arch is reflected on walls that you can see. or looking at a point of Sun light from a magnifying glass or Telescope on a lite color surface. its way to intense of brightness like Camera flash in your eyes for prolonged time.

also the links I posted are for proper sized tent for way less money, I ordered one of the cheap ones in last link. its under $8.00 for a 19" cube that can fold flat like the car window shades and has Velcro to hang colored Felt on for dif back drops and uses the translucent no glare/shadows nylon which some dont.

this is why I intend to find correct Lux/lighting level and match a bulb Wattage for it and plug it in with scanner PSU so it can scan in a closet or ? while I do other things.

gonna need a bigger tent than that 9" one.

You only need to enclose the turntable and the model, you don't need to enclose the whole scanner.

or cheapest http://www.ebay.com/itm/Photo-Cube-Phot … Sw~bFWGtbU

I have been just putting a dull black paper sheet behind my scanner. I'm going to try enclosing it on all sides like your setup. How are you getting a single piece of wire to hold the model solidly enough so that it doesn't move when the table turns?

Bob

It doesn't work on all the models, but for some, like the boxer, the feet act as a bipod, and the wire makes the tripod.  I usually find a place to wedge the wire in  some little nook or cranny ( in this particular case there's a crease where his chest meets the chin), and then wedge it against the table.

I cut a bunch of wires to different lengths to suit what I needed, but sometimes the model just won't stay.

I'm still contemplating doing a scanner mod where either the turntable can be tilted, or more likely the head (camera & lasers) can be moved in an arc maybe 15° to 30° off the horizontal.

As for enclosing the scanner, your best bet is to buy one of those light tents from eBay.  I'll probably buy one of these myself.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Light-Room-Phot … SwbdpWa8e4

BTW.  My setup is not currently enclosed.  It may look like it in that photo, but it's just the scanner sitting just in front of my SD3 printer, with a black towel draped over the top, and a piece of foam board overhanging to cut down the overhead light.

Bob

this is just a new type of photography and its been standardized for years like F stops, exposure times, lens focal points, shutter speeds etc. thats why those settings are posted with photos in magazines etc so others can try same shots with better success once found. also Lighting in Lumens, Lux, candle power etc.

true no such thing ATM for 3D laser Scanning but who will be the 1st to develop it. just a matter of time. never say theres no such thing, somebody will prove you wrong or already has. keep an open mind. light meters are used for both ambient light and reflective light on subject. thats how its duplicated professionally. everything can be measured.

Even if you could always replicate the ambient light every time, the model itself will require different settings depending on the surface colors, brightness and reflectivity.

So when I scan something I always have to tweak the lighting, exposure and thresholds.  The only way you could standardize is if your lighting would always be the same, AND your model will always be the same color (like a flat neutral gray).

I am going to ask some people I know and maybe even look for a meter and do the same. as I have a real close range that looks good also. several of us can compare for confirmation.

on my tiny models this is hard to see, but on models this size its easy to see whats going on. that refraction of laser beam also looses some of its viability making weak image or holes in surface which is compensated for with multiple scans merged that have stronger/fuller view of the laser beam in those shadow areas. its like why they went to digital TV from Analog because they wanted better definition instead of snow images but with weak antenna signals instead you get no picture instead of snowy. we want crisp contrast or none then combine different views and no snow to delete a piece at a time.

Polarized lens can do wonders. they even used them in 3D movies in the 1980s one direction on left lens and opposite on Right. I remember waiting for movie to start and looking at my glasses as I tilted them back and forth, the over head lights reflection went one way on left lens and opposite way on Right due to the thin coatings we where told not to touch or they would wipe off.