1) Use a paperclip to remove the broken pieces of the toothed washer then use super glue to glue the new fitting to the old fitting.  I suspect I will be able to break the bond in the future when the new fitting eventually breaks.

2) Use a paperclip to remove the broken pieces of the toothed washer then use a dremel drill to grind away the metal edge on the new fitting so that it seats lower and allows the threads to  hold.  If you hold the new fitting against the old fitting, you will be able to see where to grind.  The metal is soft and I was surprised how easy it was to reduce it.  A pair of calipers will help you identify the high spots.

https://www.reprap.me/flsun-10pcs-pc4-m … inter.html

I think they are in Denmark.

Exactly my problem! The YouTube video isn't available anymore

I there some parts available here in Europe?

Gérard

This would also be a great time to change your bowden tubing as well.  The two I use are:
Capricorn TL Translucent 4mm OD x 2mm ID x 1M Long - https://bit.ly/2NEDbkL
or
Tecboss Bowden Tubing, Premium PTFE Tube for 1.75mm Filament Teflon Tubes Low Friction - https://amzn.to/2SfhIS5

I would highly recommend using a collect clip on all the pneumatic fittings.

E3D original 1.75mm - https://bit.ly/2Vx1BBt or a Thingiverse search will result in several different styles to print yourself; e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4363543

It might also be a good time to purchase some union tube fittings, 4mm OD x 4mm OD, Straight Pneumatic Connector (Pack of 10) - https://amzn.to/35DhVUK.  Chances are it will be the next to go; mine did within a week the first time.

, but the part won't quite fit.  It's soooo close, but not quite tall enough on the threading.  Solution, cut the black plastic and remove the black washer on the threads with my finger nails.  This shallows out the housing just enough to allow the threads on the replacement part to work. 

Just to be clear.  Looking at the great pic yizhoe posted:  Look at the blue piece on top, follow down to the brass, then down to the silver. See the black ring under the silver? Cut that off and the replacement parts work.  I hope this helps someone out there.  This was a MAJOR pain to research and find.  da Vinci could do a much better job at a parts list and replacement options. Sheesh.

And, after looking for hours, and not finding anything online, and talking with Home Depot, I was about to give up. Then, after talking with the hardware guy at Ace, the solution to my problem was to use a 'tap' which is a bit for a drill that allows you to drill threads into a tube. So I 'tapped' my original feeder grip (see picture: threads.jpg) and then screwed in the new piece to the top (see picture solution.jpg, of blue-top brass  feeder grip screwed into the original steel feeder grip.

This appears to be working like a charm, and it ended up being minimal modification of the 3d printer.

Good luck everyone!

These DID NOT fit.
From what I can tell, the screw is not deep enough so it can't reach the threads in the printer.

So after lots of searching I purchased these tonight and hopefully they work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009I … &psc=1

I'll post an update when they get here.
-pat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6 … &psc=1

And thanks guys so much you guys saved my life. xyz printing was out of stock and no ETA on when they would be back in coming to this forum showed me what I could buy in its place and has me back up and printing.

Thank you!

For those that find themselves in need:

$6 one:
http://www.amazon.com/Thread-Connector- … ge_o00_s00

$5 10 pack
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-Thread-Pn … ge_o00_s01

http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connec … s/=11y8ekq

The DaVinci feed tube is 4mm od. Not sure what the thread pitch is but could also be metric.

Hey, I have the exact same problem and would order the part and do the replacement, but I can't figure out how to disassemble the plastic housing around the feeder.  Any advice on that, or a how to that would be helpful?  Thanks.

Took me a while to figure it out as there are no tutorials online that I could find. Actually my wife was helping me disassemble it.

First we removed the top door panel.
Then we had to remove both left and right panels of the main housing.
From there I was able to remove the top crossbeam via a couple push clips.
This gave me access to the screws to remove the final top panel(this also has some push clips on both sides)
After that I was able to unscrew the busted Bowden tube fitting.