Start with lube. (white lithium grease is what I hear from people)

Snug up the collar around the shaft on the top of the Z motor - should be just snug. (jam nut? not sure what it's called.) Mine was sloppy loose and I made it fingertip tight.

If your screws on the bottom back of the bed are loose snug them up.
However, I was told by SD a while back not to make them too tight because the Z rods might not be quite parallel, and very tight bed screws could cause binding.

that 'White Lithium Grease" is what I bought for mine but it seems to get black and tacky after just a dozen prints (or unused for a couple weeks) and thin oil like sewing machine or Remington gun oil does a better job for me without gumming up and turning black. so I am still looking for a better slicker thin lube that lasts longer and dont harm parts.

It looks like it's only doing a single point calibration which won't take into consideration any angle on the print bed. You need to make sure you are using the G29 gcode in your start code so it will do the multi-point calibration.  If you don't then it will only be correct height at the point where it tested since the press has such an un-level build platform with no way to level it without modification.
I managed to get mine reasonably level (it was off about 7 degrees from factory) by taking it off and elongating the screw holes do I could level it a little better but still doesn't solve the bounce.

I have parts on the way to replace plastic items, but once I get up and running I'll remember to use the G29? gcode.

That frame is massive looking.

Unfortunately I went ahead and bought the 20x60 before seeing your comment. I guess I'll have some tinkering to do.

MacGyverX wrote:

http://www.soliforum.com/post/112999/#p112999

Were you able to use the 250mm length or did you have to trim it down? I'm thinking about going with the 20x60 that you mentioned if a bracket is needed to mount.

Yes, you'll need to cut it down to about 219 or 220 mm, if I remember correctly.  I tried the 20x60 bracket, but I didn't like how it hit the metal cross brace.

I tried several design variations and ended up constructing a platform out of makerbeam parts (10x10 t-slot extrusions).  It took several tries, but I now have a very stable platform with no interferences and really smooth motion.

http://www.soliforum.com/post/112999/#p112999

Were you able to use the 250mm length or did you have to trim it down? I'm thinking about going with the 20x60 that you mentioned if a bracket is needed to mount.

Wow. I've experienced some "creaking" noises before, but nothing so extreme that it caused any noticeable motion. I simply re-greased the z-axis rod with lithium grease, and eventually the creaking went away (presumably the grease needed time to spread around as the printer was used).

Not sure, I'll give it a try for now. Probably replace things with OpenBuild parts eventually.
Another thing it was doing one day was bottoming out on the Z axis during calibration and thumping really loud as if it was hopping gears

Snug up the collar around the shaft on the top of the Z motor - should be just snug. (jam nut? not sure what it's called.) Mine was sloppy loose and I made it fingertip tight.

If your screws on the bottom back of the bed are loose snug them up.
However, I was told by SD a while back not to make them too tight because the Z rods might not be quite parallel, and very tight bed screws could cause binding.

http://openbuildspartstore.com/anti-bac … ead-screw/

http://www.amazon.com/6pcs-LM8UU-Linear … B008RIKN7W

Where did you source the extrude?

I'd suggest doing this. http://www.soliforum.com/post/112969/#p112969.

It's a involved upgrade and requires you to completely tear the Press down. But worth it.

This upgrade looks very desirable and very terrifying due to the fact that I would be nervous to tear apart the printer and mess something up while putting it back together. Plus I wouldnt be able to fabricate that custom milled top and bottom plate. Ill look into the other parts you listed. Was this an easy thing to modify?

I have seen the changes with the head E3D V6, and I would do the same as you, I received the head last week and I print the parts I am ready for transforamtion, but I wanted to know if I have to absolutely modify the firmware of the press. I already changed the Duty of the original head of the press, it is exactly the same as E3D V6.

I know a language the Arduino but because of my English I struggle to understand the procedures and steps.
I will be you very grateful if you could help me

with easy to follow step

thank you very much

It's a involved upgrade and requires you to completely tear the Press down. But worth it.