But I can't find the Process I just made. I've tried twice. both "Updating Process" and "Save As New". So, where'd it go?
But I can't find the Process I just made. I've tried twice. both "Updating Process" and "Save As New". So, where'd it go?
If you're using a Lite6, 265 is too hot. You don't want to play around with this; PTFE fumes are very dangerous. They can cause Teflon fever, a pretty serious illness. The fumes can kill small pets and children by causing seizures. You've been warned.
+100!!!!!!!
In the review jago and myself posted the day the hotend was announced, it was outlined. The statement cannot be ignored.
]]>Also, I have an idea about the big temp disparity. I epoxied my thermistor with a glop of JB Weld high-temp epoxy. I painted over the thermistor and around the two other sides of the corner of the eater block (XY and Z), probably a spot about the size of a pea. I think that is holding or reflectig heat back in and, indeed, causing a hot spot around the thermistor. Not a biggie, now that I see what is happening, but a heads up for anyone wanting to do the same.
I know, epoxying your thermistor is not the kind of thing we want to go recommending normally but if the idea should occur to others, they need to know why. That and, it IS epoxying your dang thermistor! 
So, whoever s in charge f the Wiki... Filament spill, possible causes include:
Extruder temp not what is indicated, not melting filament enough to extrude easily (even thouh some does come out).
Filament path must be straight, no jogs.
Idler bearing must contact filament/drive gear at 3 0'clock position.
Ensure just enough tension on the tensioner arm.
Check for clogged nozzle or barrel.
Verify drive gear is extruding 100mm of filament when 100m is called for. Adjust firmware to correct.
Also, verify the Z-stop to ensure bed is not blocking nozzleDon't assume anything. Check everything.
Clear, Concise answers. Who could ask for anything more.
Glad you're starting to get a handle on things.
Anyone can contribute to the WIKI 
Elmoret according to my digital meat thermometer it is actually 240C.
That is only accurate if embedded in the meat. Otherwise it is reading somewhere between the heater block and ambient, and at best it is reading the temperature of the surface of the heater block, not the inner area close to the nozzle.
Assuming you updated the thermistor table successfully, I'd put my money on the thermistor being accurate, not the meat thermometer.
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