Check the gap between of the heating bed and extruder nozzle, if this gap is too big, the object is always skidding.
     You can use a very thin plastic card(0.2-0.4mm thick) to check and adjust that gap.

This, above all else, altho I use a piece of paper myself (0.1mm).
Bed should be heated when checking the gap.

I print on a old Solidoodle 3 with 200 - 210 C nozzle temp and 100 - 105 C bed temp for ABS mostly from Hatchbox. I make sure that I get real good squish of plastic into print bed. Also, just need to mention you have to adjust your Z location stop, mine was just a set screw in back wall of machine.

http://www.printinz.com/zebra-plates/

oh ya last mention, I lay this on a Aluminum bed with slight warp and it is fine.

By my knowledge Workbench has a glass on the heat bed already, so you have to pay attention on Pirvan's comments,
use a hairspray after few prints.
And I think you also should try that:
1) For ABS change extruder temp. to 210 C degree, not 230 C, but room temp should be greater than 15C degree,
     105 C degree is OK for bed temp.
2) Check the gap between of the heating bed and extruder nozzle, if this gap is too big, the object is always skidding.
     You can use a very thin plastic card(0.2-0.4mm thick) to check and adjust that gap. Go to solidoodle's website for
      how to adjust it?
You just have to pay attention that there are two nozzles, so you have to align them up in Z direction, and adjust the
distance between two nozzles. If it is difficult to you, you may take a nozzle out, just let it works as a single color printer,
when you get some experience and know how to adjust two nozzles, then you go back to work, otherwise you spend a lot
of time, but can not get any good prints for a period of time.

Hope you will adjust your Workbench well in this holidays weekend!

Happy New Year!

I don't know what type of surface the Workbench comes with, but most of us now use glass. 

Get a piece of glass cut to the size of your print bed surface (2-3mm thick works great). 

Remove any Kapton tape or any other surface covering that is already on the bed, then spray some hairspray on the bottom side of the glass, then put it on top of the print bed.  Heat up the print bed, then let it cool off, then heat it up again, and let it cool off. 

The glass should be attached to the print bed pretty well.  Next spray a good layer of hairspray on top of the glass, heat up the bed and let the spray dry on the surface (about 5 minutes should be good).  You should now try to print something. 

To remove the printed mode, simply wait for the prinbed to cool off, once it's cooled off, the model should easily pop off.  You only need to spray the top of the glass once every few prints, but if you want to do it before every print that works too.

If you want to take the glass off the printbed, heat it up, and when it's hot, gently slide a thin blade between the glass and the bed and separate it.

Good luck

P.S.  for PLA, We found that Blue painter's masking tape works great, and now heat is needed.  Just pay a few layers of blue tape on the surface, and print straight on top of it, no hairspray or glue needed.

I just received my Solidoodle Workbench this morning and after some tries about printing parts in PLA or ABS, I just succedeed into printing parts with PLA thanks to a glue stick.
With ABS, it always skidded and I've no idea how to fix this problem.

My extruder temp is 230°C and my bed temp is about 105°C.

Do you have any tips to make my parts stick to the bed ? What's the best way to do this ?

Thanks,

P.S: I'm french so, don't blame me for my english and please, be clear in your explanations.