Im evaluating the option of replacing the alu bed with a glass.
It doesn't seem to difficult, only four screws: I hope that the warming plate is not glued to the alu bed.
Suggestions about the operation and the glass type?
tks

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You don't need to replace the aluminum bed, just place glass or mirror on top and secure with clips.  You will then have to run the z-offset feature to reset the z distance between the new surface and the hot end.  Run the calibrate function first to level the bed, as function won't work with the glass or mirror on top...

Skyblue wrote:

I also don't like the tape on bed method, and have changed to an 8 x 8" mirror I found.  Its perfectly flat, and I have tried glue sticks, hairspray, abs slurry, but the best way I have found to keep objects from unsticking, or curling is to use some Oatey PVC, ABS glue found at the hardware store.  I use the clear, the kind with the little brush inside the can.  Usually used to glue PVC pipe together.  This stuff works great, just spread a coat on surface, and print.  Will not lift, and comes off great after the bed cools a little.  A lot easier and neater than ABS slurry, which also works well, just messy.  Give it a shot!

I've found several different varieties of this product.  Can you be more specific? 

Thanks,

Yeah, it is Oatey Clear Pvc Abs all purpose cement.  Can says for PVC, CPVC, and ABS.  Check at Ace or Home Depot or any hardware store.  Note: Don't use this directly on the aluminum bed, use on glass on top or mirror.

I also don't like the tape on bed method, and have changed to an 8 x 8" mirror I found.  Its perfectly flat, and I have tried glue sticks, hairspray, abs slurry, but the best way I have found to keep objects from unsticking, or curling is to use some Oatey PVC, ABS glue found at the hardware store.  I use the clear, the kind with the little brush inside the can.  Usually used to glue PVC pipe together.  This stuff works great, just spread a coat on surface, and print.  Will not lift, and comes off great after the bed cools a little.  A lot easier and neater than ABS slurry, which also works well, just messy.  Give it a shot!

I've found several different varieties of this product.  Can you be more specific? 

Thanks,

sfraden wrote:

Before you go to that trouble, try using Kapton tape and glue stick; I'm printing ABS with no issues using that.

If you do decide to change, then you MUST use borosilicate glass; its a tiny bit more expensive, but much stronger and should never crack.

I tried this combination with very bad results. No way to print the second layer without disater.
Wich parameters do you use?

Actually default parameters, using standard XYZ abs.

Before you go to that trouble, try using Kapton tape and glue stick; I'm printing ABS with no issues using that.

If you do decide to change, then you MUST use borosilicate glass; its a tiny bit more expensive, but much stronger and should never crack.

I tried this combination with very bad results. No way to print the second layer without disater.
Wich parameters do you use?

Im evaluating the option of replacing the alu bed with a glass.
It doesn't seem to difficult, only four screws: I hope that the warming plate is not glued to the alu bed.
Suggestions about the operation and the glass type?
tks

Before you go to that trouble, try using Kapton tape and glue stick; I'm printing ABS with no issues using that.

If you do decide to change, then you MUST use borosilicate glass; its a tiny bit more expensive, but much stronger and should never crack.

I've had good results using kapton tape and hairspray. Corners no longer lift.

As for the lines experienced after printing the print lines, it could be a sign that your extruder temperature is a bit too high if it's excreting/seeping filament when it's transferring the nozzle from one area to another. Try lowering the extruder temp by 5 degrees in the print settings on the xyzware and try again. If you still see it happening try lowering it another 5 degrees, etc..

What kind of hairspray do you use? I tryed with kapton tape only without results.
I tryed different temperatures for the nozzle and for the bed, but nothing seems to work.
I'm very disappointed becouse with the previous model with the glass bed I didn' have these issues.

Hello all first of all.
I've just unboxed my 1.0 Pro and i have some doubt.....
Can you suggest me best parameters to avoid problems?
Thank you all for support.

First off, never print directly to your aluminum bed, the surface is not perfectly smooth like glass is, and your prints will either not stick at all or become somewhat embedded in the ridges.  Use tape on the surface.  Blue painters tape for PLA, and standard masking tape for ABS.

I suggest replacing the tape every print, it should work fine that way.

If you want that smooth surface again, you can use kapton tape with your ABS.  Its a little more expensive, but is smooth and stands up well to the heat.

ABS does have a tendency to shrink when cooling, that's why corners lift sometimes.  A tiny dab of the glue stick on the tape will fix that issue, however the glue stick and tape are a bad mix as the heat causes the glue to sink into the making tape and hardens there, which can make getting your print off the bed quite a challenge.  At least you don't have to worry about the glass cracking

As for the lines experienced after printing the print lines, it could be a sign that your extruder temperature is a bit too high if it's excreting/seeping filament when it's transferring the nozzle from one area to another. Try lowering the extruder temp by 5 degrees in the print settings on the xyzware and try again. If you still see it happening try lowering it another 5 degrees, etc..