Do you have any video of your drill press in action?

harleydk wrote:

danny wrote:

With a lathe you could just take a solid brass tube and make a tube/nozzle as an all in one part that a heater could just bolt into.

That's a very good idea, actually. Alas I haven't one of those at my disposal :-(

me either....

but I'm thinking of printing one! a small jewellers lathe for working soft brass surely can't be that difficult to print.

(for the chuck I've got a could of pin vice/drill chucks that are meant for PCB drills, but fit in a standard 6mm hex driver.)

After my success with my drill press, I am thinking of designing a printable lathe.

danny wrote:

With a lathe you could just take a solid brass tube and make a tube/nozzle as an all in one part that a heater could just bolt into.

That's a very good idea, actually. Alas I haven't one of those at my disposal :-(

me either....

but I'm thinking of printing one! a small jewellers lathe for working soft brass surely can't be that difficult to print.

(for the chuck I've got a could of pin vice/drill chucks that are meant for PCB drills, but fit in a standard 6mm hex driver.)

don't use rtv or sealants waste of time use a proper engineered thread that will seal and will stand the cycles of heat, these are used in hydraulics applications all the time with perfect results

use of sealants will result in getting the sealant material inside the hot-end and blocking nozzle

With a lathe you could just take a solid brass tube and make a tube/nozzle as an all in one part that a heater could just bolt into.

That's a very good idea, actually. Alas I haven't one of those at my disposal :-(

With a lathe you could just take a solid brass tube and make a tube/nozzle as an all in one part that a heater could just bolt into.

'regular' solder with lead in it like 60/40 or anything similar will have a melting point right around ABS extrusion temps hence the need for silver solder as it will be at least 100C above that and plenty resistant to coming apart when extruding. It is however a little trickier to sweat stuff together while getting it hotter and at the same time not overdoing the heat... especially with small parts, so it;s best to practice on some similar scrap first if you are not used to doing this sort of thing oh, and yes any regular flux will work

Thanks! :-)

tealvince wrote:

Having just sweated some copper water pipe to brass fittings this weekend, I'm thinking the same tools should work for you if you really wanted it to affix the parts permanently.  You'd need a propane torch and some silver solder and flux.

Hi,

that's very inspiring - I could see this as a great excuse to get a propane torch. Can you share info on the process? Flux (regular solder flux?) around the edges and then solder - at which temps?

'Preciate it in advance :-)

'regular' solder with lead in it like 60/40 or anything similar will have a melting point right around ABS extrusion temps hence the need for silver solder as it will be at least 100C above that and plenty resistant to coming apart when extruding. It is however a little trickier to sweat stuff together while getting it hotter and at the same time not overdoing the heat... especially with small parts, so it;s best to practice on some similar scrap first if you are not used to doing this sort of thing oh, and yes any regular flux will work

Hollow threaded rods at qu-bd.com for cheap!

Hm, I'm not sure I'm seeing it - are you thinking 'bout these: http://store.qu-bd.com/product.php?id_product=25 ?

Having just sweated some copper water pipe to brass fittings this weekend, I'm thinking the same tools should work for you if you really wanted it to affix the parts permanently.  You'd need a propane torch and some silver solder and flux.

Hi,

that's very inspiring - I could see this as a great excuse to get a propane torch. Can you share info on the process? Flux (regular solder flux?) around the edges and then solder - at which temps?

'Preciate it in advance :-)

danny wrote:

Are you sure it's a good idea to glue the nozzle to the barrel? Sure it'll stop any leaking as this part but seems it'd make it a real pig to clear clogs.

Haha, at this point I'm not sure about anything, I only know I got a solidoodle that's a b**** to get working and I'm feeling adventurous. Nozzles aren't that expensive here, $5, but the threaded rod I'm simply at a loss to find at reasonable prices (which includes shipping). So I'm aiming for something where the parts are locally available. I'm aiming for a solution which will make it very easy and cheap to discard the nozzle + barrel, in as much as I'll always have a bunch of spares lying around.

Hollow threaded rods at qu-bd.com for cheap!

I'm in need of inspiration as to join a standard nozzle with a 6mm brass pipe. Does anyone know how to best go about that - sans my lack of, and not easily having access to, welding equipment.

Having just sweated some copper water pipe to brass fittings this weekend, I'm thinking the same tools should work for you if you really wanted it to affix the parts permanently.  You'd need a propane torch and some silver solder and flux.

Are you sure it's a good idea to glue the nozzle to the barrel? Sure it'll stop any leaking as this part but seems it'd make it a real pig to clear clogs.

Incidentally if you know of a reasonably cheap supplier of those threaded barrels by all means let me know! Again, by 'reasonable' I mean anything below $5

Are you sure it's a good idea to glue the nozzle to the barrel? Sure it'll stop any leaking as this part but seems it'd make it a real pig to clear clogs.

Haha, at this point I'm not sure about anything, I only know I got a solidoodle that's a b**** to get working and I'm feeling adventurous. Nozzles aren't that expensive here, $5, but the threaded rod I'm simply at a loss to find at reasonable prices (which includes shipping). So I'm aiming for something where the parts are locally available. I'm aiming for a solution which will make it very easy and cheap to discard the nozzle + barrel, in as much as I'll always have a bunch of spares lying around.

there are epoxies that might hold up to the temps but I am not sure how well they would last with cycling temps???

you could buy a tap and thread your own pipe ---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Hand-Taps- … 5ae9c0ed39

or maybe just some high heat RTV --> http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-PRO-S … mp;vxp=mtr... again not sure how it would work but might be worth a try

Hello,

great options - really appreciate the feedback, thanks!