here are the results - the vase was the 3rd thing printed, after 2 calibration cubes... (partial print - i killed the print cause it was getting late & i dont leave my printers unattended)

and a Marvin - still need to rig up a part cooling fan, but not too bad considering...

carl_m1968 wrote:

Not to mention  Deltas add a new dimension to calibration called flatness and it is a PITA to get right. I still have not and am in fact to the point of selling my mini kossel and let somebody else have the misery.

yeah, it is a bit of a pain to do, but it can be done - took me the better part of a day to get ours dialed in...

One thing I did find was helpful: adding screws to the top of the carriages to make fine tuning of the end-stops easier - just drilled a hole in the top slightly smaller than 3mm, and added a 3mm cap screw so it would contact the end-stop switch properly. a quarter turn of a screw is much easier to do than constantly having to modify and upload firmware.

I might try that, I can get it fine on the Alpha and Beta tower. But the Gamma tower is always too high or too low. Probably evident that I did not put the rail or the switch at the exact same point as the other two.

Not to mention  Deltas add a new dimension to calibration called flatness and it is a PITA to get right. I still have not and am in fact to the point of selling my mini kossel and let somebody else have the misery.

yeah, it is a bit of a pain to do, but it can be done - took me the better part of a day to get ours dialed in...

One thing I did find was helpful: adding screws to the top of the carriages to make fine tuning of the end-stops easier - just drilled a hole in the top slightly smaller than 3mm, and added a 3mm cap screw so it would contact the end-stop switch properly. a quarter turn of a screw is much easier to do than constantly having to modify and upload firmware.

I misread the dims for CTC. Thinking it was 380mm print height.
Its 155, smaller then DAV.

M looking for 12in H- 300mm+.  I think that may bring it in the delta category.
From what I read deltas are faster but less accurate than cartesian.

a delta can be dialed in for accuracy as well as speed, but it is not as easy to do as it is for a cartesian type.
http://minow.blogspot.com/index.html#49 … 9571907051 (about halfway down on this page deals with accuracy on a delta - 4- Calibrate the firmware to print to correct dimensions.)

The bed frame is wood ? Most plastic used in these chi printers is melamine.

Could you post a pic of the bed frame.

My frame is wood and plastic. The plastic is molded and not abs as acetone has no effect on it. The issue is the wood and the nuts in the wood t-slots. You can only get them so tight without breaking the wood.

M looking for 12in H- 300mm+.  I think that may bring it in the delta category.
From what I read deltas are faster but less accurate than cartesian.

So... main controller, lcd panel, (2) extruders- about $360

Anything else replaced or needs replacing ?  mechanical repairs ?

Needs side enclosure panels and door for abs. Top ? that looks difficult.

Im looking.

$450 -500 on ebay. clone of a clone of a clone ?  Hard to tell anymore.

I made a 27" by 27" by 27" box using 1 inch PVC pipe for the frame and a clear medium weight shower curtain cut up for the top, sides, front, and back. I set this over the printer when I do ABS.. However I have found if I use hairspray I have no need for a cover on most ABS prints.

The extruder set came from uncle bucks here in the usa.. It is for the flashforge avatar and has all wires and connectors. A perfect drop in replacement but with mk10 extruders. It was $150. The controller which is mainly for SDcard printing which I rarely do was $175. The Azteeg mainboard was $150, the DRV8825 steppers where $15 each at 5 total. I did nothing else to it except a glass plate on the bed. I am going to get stiffeners for the bed arms as it seems to be sagging on one side or I will see if a machine shop will do all the wood and plastic on the bed frame out of aluminum. So your close...

Anything else replaced or needs replacing ?  mechanical repairs ?

Needs side enclosure panels and door for abs. Top ? that looks difficult.

Im looking.

$450 -500 on ebay. clone of a clone of a clone ?  Hard to tell anymore.

So first mod, out with the mightyboard in with an Azteeg X3 Pro and  Viki2 LCD controller. All was pretty good after calibration, but I was having issue with clogs and filament would just stop feeding. Upon closer inspection I found the extruders have no way to control pressure placed on the filament against the feed gears.

So onto my second mod. Out goes the old mk9 extruders and in goes the mk10 extruders for the Flashforge Avatar. I have said it many times and will say it here. The CTC is actually a direct clone of the American made FlashForge Creator.  The Flashforge is actually a clone of the Makerbot Creator. Knowing that I found a place on line in the US called Uncle Chucks that sells parts exclusively for the Flashforge and Wanhao printers which are rebranded CTc printers. Those mk10 extruders came with harnesses and all and where a direct drop in.

Now she is printing great, but I wanted her to be more self supported and still have the ability to not use the SDcard all the time.

So now the third mod or more like an add on. A Microcenter exclusive Winbook 7" tablet running windows 8.1 and sporting a quad core 2.2GHz CPU. Throw on Rephost and Simplyfy3D. Make a custom mount, connect her up and bam all I need is two AC outlets and I can print anywhere and load any STL. Plus the tablet and GUI look pretty damn sweet on it as well.