luc wrote:

Repetier use different way to upload file than XYZ
XYZ send the file as it is
Repetier send GCODE line by line by interpreting them once on host and once on printer to check integrity so it take far longer than just push the file.
Wifi SD card is far the fastest way to upload IMHO

So, no worries about losing data or bad data transmission through USB cable when using Repetier-host and Repetier firm on Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A?

The only time you would loose data is maybe if your cable is cheap, over 6 feet long, or you are trying to run more than one printer from the same PC. I have never had any sort of USB comm problems myself.

luc wrote:

Repetier use different way to upload file than XYZ
XYZ send the file as it is
Repetier send GCODE line by line by interpreting them once on host and once on printer to check integrity so it take far longer than just push the file.
Wifi SD card is far the fastest way to upload IMHO

So, no worries about losing data or bad data transmission through USB cable when using Repetier-host and Repetier firm on Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A?

The only time you would loose data is maybe if your cable is cheap, over 6 feet long, or you are trying to run more than one printer from the same PC.

Repetier use different way to upload file than XYZ
XYZ send the file as it is
Repetier send GCODE line by line by interpreting them once on host and once on printer to check integrity so it take far longer than just push the file.
Wifi SD card is far the fastest way to upload IMHO

So, no worries about losing data or bad data transmission through USB cable when using Repetier-host and Repetier firm on Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A?

carl_m1968 wrote:

So I have been doing some snooping and seems there may be an issue with Arduino and windows with respect to higher comport numbers. While the printer is connected open it's port properties. Then advanced properties and change its port number to the lowest number you can get with exception to 1. Then see if you have the same issue.

Hi Carl,

I gave this suggestion a try but unfortunately the issue remains.  I did some googling as well and found some posts similar about Arduino.  I will keep playing around with it but any other suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

Mark

Well I tried several things including using a different USB Port on the computer.  I can change the printer to any available Com port (currently COM 2) and when I unplug/replug it in it defaults in device manager to Arduino Due (COM 10).  I tried changing the printer com to 10 so it was the same as Arduino and that did not work.  So I have to reboot.

When I tried a different USB is worked similarly except the when I recycled the printer is showed up consistently as Arduino Due COM 4.  It did this with COM 4 consistently.  I have been trying to read through threads like this one:

https://www.reddit.com/r/arduino/comme … ys_in_use/

I will keep digging.  Is there some setting in Arduino itself I need to configure differently?

Found this:

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoDue

From the above link:

The Arduino Due has two USB ports available. The Native USB port (which supports CDC serial communication using the SerialUSB object) is connected directly to the SAM3X MCU. The other USB port is the Programming port. It is connected to an ATMEL 16U2 which acts as a USB-to-Serial converter. This Programming port is the default for uploading sketches and communicating with the Arduino.

Not sure how this applies to the DaVinci board but if it has "2" com ports perhaps that is the reason it changes??  Also in the standard Arduino install are ATMEL drivers installed?  I recall reading some had to install these separately.

So I have been doing some snooping and seems there may be an issue with Arduino and windows with respect to higher comport numbers. While the printer is connected open it's port properties. Then advanced properties and change its port number to the lowest number you can get with exception to 1. Then see if you have the same issue.

Hi Carl,

I gave this suggestion a try but unfortunately the issue remains.  I did some googling as well and found some posts similar about Arduino.  I will keep playing around with it but any other suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

Mark

I will try Carl's latest suggestion about the com port issue(lowering).  To be clear to others that posted I have no issue connecting in S3D or Repetier.  It is an issue with the com ports, windows 10, Arduino and the printer.  I'll let you know what I find out.

I got my wifi SD card today unfortunately the nice folks at Amazon sent me the wrong adapter so I have a new one in coming next week now.  That will be my preferred way I thing once I can get things hooked up and working.  I do wonder how the stock firmware could upload relatively quickly to the sd card in the printer will it takes considerably longer with repetier firmware.  I am sure there is an explanation.

mark.burton wrote:

the tape just keeps you from damaging the bed nothing to do with sticking.

if your printing on a glass heated bed don't use painters tape (well you can but I don't). Even with painters tape you still need glue or hair spray.

I do use it on my printer that does not have a heated bed and I find I still need to use glue or hair spray to get prints to stick well.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Painters tape is used for PLA on a cold bed for sticking. On a hot bed it is used just for protection as Mark said. it's adhesive does not hold up well under heat and the tape itself will pull up with the edges of the print. If you have a glass heated bed just use glue or hairspray for pla  or both plus abs goop for abs.

Do you think that painters tape could be a preventive measure against the bed glass breaking (which is a common issue, as far as I know, in Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A)?

The breaking and chipping is caused by thermal shock and cheap glass.

The painters tape will do little for that.

the tape just keeps you from damaging the bed nothing to do with sticking.

if your printing on a glass heated bed don't use painters tape (well you can but I don't). Even with painters tape you still need glue or hair spray.

I do use it on my printer that does not have a heated bed and I find I still need to use glue or hair spray to get prints to stick well.

Do you think that painters tape could be a preventive measure against the bed glass breaking (which is a common issue, as far as I know, in Da Vinci 1.0/1.0A)?

if your printing on a glass heated bed don't use painters tape (well you can but I don't). Even with painters tape you still need glue or hair spray.

I do use it on my printer that does not have a heated bed and I find I still need to use glue or hair spray to get prints to stick well.

lifting of the edges is common when printing with abs.

here are things that can negatively affect your print and cause more lifting:

The bed not being level.
the nozzle being to far away from the bed on the first lvl.
the fist level being supper thin
the bed not being hot enough
long thin prints
not using glue like uhu (you can use others as well or hair spray. I find hair spray doesn't work as well as the glue for abs but works good for pla. but the uhu glue works well for pla as well) often I may skip the glue if I want a really smooth print as the glue does reduce that hair spray is better for that then glue but nothing is still smoother)  if you don't use glue getting the right distance between the nozzle and the bed is very very important.

Things that can be helpful in keeping a print from lifting:

a brim ( this essentially increases the first lay surface which can help resist the curling an even if you do get some usialy its just the brim that lifts.

a raft (this can help if your bed suffers from not being flat)

Putting scrap throw away parts near the corners and making sure the brim from the corner touches the scrap part (example putting a 5 mm circle near the corner when you design the part and then setting it 3 mm away and having a 3 mm brim)

I'm sure there are more but those are the basic ones.

Mark, what about painters tape?

Here in Spain the blue painters tape is not usual (rare in shops actually), the painters tape we use is off-white, a bit coarse surfaced that, maybe, isn't good to stick the parts on the bed (I haven't tried yet). But I get from some users, here and in youtube, that the blue one is pretty good for 3d printers, avoiding glass breaking and sticking parts well to the bed, so I'm a bit curious to know why don't you mentioned it in your above wonderful comment.

This is a good suggestion but unfortunately it did not work.  I try different combo's but the printer port the printer usually uses is busy.  Some how it is not being released as available.  Quite frankly I am not sure if this is how this is suppose to work in Windows 10.  I wonder is there is some other way to "flush" the ports instead of rebooting.

I'm sorry if this comment has no sense. Have you tried to change the com port in Printer Properties of Repetier-host? I find that after the turning off and on of the printer, this com port changes (not sure if always or sometimes), and it could be necessary to readjust that setting.

In my case, when trying to reconnect from Repetier-host the error message sometime says "the port doesn't exist", then I fix the com port in Printer Properties (I see there that the previous com port is wrong) but another time it appears an error message when trying to reconnect: "denied access". So that for me this change of com port isn't a solution but... could it be for you?

Strangely, yesterday, when dealing-trying with Simplify3d and Repetier-Host, after the off-on cycles of the printer (because of bed leveling and stopping failed printings -bad temperatures from S3d that I still have to investigate-), Repetier-host connected with the printer without restarting the computer. I don't know what I did to get this positive behaviour despite using S3d.

It is connected directly though I have this USB connector:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a … 6812120087

I am going to be installing a wifi SD card so maybe this is a moot issue but I would like to figure it out if I can.  This was not an issue before the flash.  So something with Arduino maybe and how it is detected?

I would highly recommend the wifi SD card route, it's so much less hassle than printing over USB.
I always found printing over USB very hit or miss but printing from SD is much more reliable.
There's a neat little mod for the Toshiba Flashair cards that lets you upload, download and delete files from a browser.