<![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Everything was fine, until....]]>2015-09-14T19:29:39ZPunBBhttps://www.soliforum.com/topic/12265/everything-was-fine-until/<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>yeah, that is what I did, too - 4+ mm thick - takes forever for it to get hot with that small heat pad, but once it does, it holds it nice.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/2015-09-14T19:29:39Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105396/#p105396<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>I will keep that in mind... Thanx Also found 3M 468m is good to 400F, but it is rather expensive. I just may replace the deck with a machined piece from where I work, if I do, it will be substantially thicker than the original.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/2015-09-14T00:08:38Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105374/#p105374<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>I used a high temp copper gasket stuff (meant for head gaskets in auto applications) when i transplanted mine - seems to be working fine so far and that was several months ago.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/2015-09-13T18:38:56Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105352/#p105352<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>The glass difference is slight... 2.3mm plain 2.9mm tempered. Used to be able to print when the indicator hit 95C, now I have to wait another 10 -15 min. Like I said, I almost destroyed a couple of prints trying to get them off the glass with a razor blade. Does anyone know of a thermal adhesive or double sided tape that will hold the heat pad on another piece of machined aluminum? I think my plate is developing a slight warp.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/2015-09-12T13:42:16Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105264/#p105264<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>also longer to cool]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/795/2015-09-11T05:04:44Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105186/#p105186<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>the thicker things are, the longer it will take to get fully heated up - the thermistor may read hot, but it takes a little to get the heat soaked through completely. I found this out when I upgraded the aluminum plate for mine - went thicker (4+ mm) trying to eliminate warping - takes a good 20 mins to get it fully heated up with the old stock heat pad, but it does get there eventually.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/2015-09-10T20:46:07Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105170/#p105170<![CDATA[Re: Everything was fine, until....]]>I may have complained too soon! Just printed a couple of small things for SHMBO and I almost couldn't get them off the glass. I thing I may leave the Kapton tape off and see... Guess I really have to let it heat up.]]>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/2015-09-09T21:28:26Zhttps://www.soliforum.com/post/105111/#p105111<![CDATA[Everything was fine, until....]]>... I changed the glass today. Went from plain old window glass to a piece of thicker tempered (old scanner top) glass. Before I started I was printing ABS @ 210/95 1 skirt & no brim - had to almost pry it off the glass. New glass - 220/98 1 skirt 3 brim, and it doesn't stick worth a hoot. My old bed limits out at about 100 - 105. I could go back to the old window glass, I guess..... I also removed the old Kapton tape, haven't put new on yet - will probably have to readjust all again. What did I change that mattered so much? Does tempered glass make that much of a difference? Suggestions greatly appreciated...