You shouldn't need to do this part:
"then turn off the motor for another 30mins to an hour to soften the plastic in the chamber further before running."
Waiting 15 minutes after the temperature hits 180C should be plenty.
You can leave plastic in the barrel, but the longer it sits heated the more likely it is to carbonize. Carbonization doesn't cause jamming, but it does cause discoloration and weakens the polymer.
Ahh ok good to know.
Thank you sir
]]>"then turn off the motor for another 30mins to an hour to soften the plastic in the chamber further before running."
Waiting 15 minutes after the temperature hits 180C should be plenty.
You can leave plastic in the barrel, but the longer it sits heated the more likely it is to carbonize. Carbonization doesn't cause jamming, but it does cause discoloration and weakens the polymer.
]]>I'd recommend moving to a fixed style coupling and a stall protection board.
The washer was a nice idea in theory, and it worked on my workbench, but in application there were two issues: Inconsistent washer thickness, and shaft/socket wear resulting is slipping you're experiencing.
Current gearmotors have a square shaft and a stall protection board:
http://www.filastruder.com/products/sta … ller-board
which limits torque. That leaves you with two options:
- Get a SPB and a square drive shaft (I think I have spares, I can check later today if you're interested)
- Get a SPB and drill/tap a setscrew into the hex socket.
Hey Tim,
That's good to hear I have a couple options. I would like to go with the square drive shaft if you have any (pm if you do with price as well), if not I will just go with the set screw. I'll order the SPB once I hear back from you.
Also just for sanity check I wanted to run something by you. Once I've cleaned out the barrel/auger completely and turn on the filastruder I load the pellets and wait for temp to hit 180 than wait 30 mins afterwards. I run the motor until I see filament coming out the nipple then turn off the motor for another 30mins to an hour to soften the plastic in the chamber further before running. Could this workflow be causing my jams? Should you never leave plastic in the chamber for to long and make sure you cleared it out each time?
The washer was a nice idea in theory, and it worked on my workbench, but in application there were two issues: Inconsistent washer thickness, and shaft/socket wear resulting is slipping you're experiencing.
Current gearmotors have a square shaft and a stall protection board:
http://www.filastruder.com/products/sta … ller-board
which limits torque. That leaves you with two options:
- Get a SPB and a square drive shaft (I think I have spares, I can check later today if you're interested)
- Get a SPB and drill/tap a setscrew into the hex socket.
I've disassembled my machine multiple times at least over 12 and adjusted alignment as this was reported as the cause of this issue. The machine was running fine but kept rotating the barrel so once it was done rotating, I adjusted the mount to 90 degrees and the barrel only tweaked slightly from there. I know washers come in different thicknesses so I measured the thickest ones and used those(which were about 1.1mm, I read somewhere that 1.5mm is the standard thickness but I cut up a mild steel piece with that thickness and couldn't even come close to getting it in). I've removed the assembly completely and cleaned out all the plastic and can move the augur in the barrel freely yet this still happens.
Temp is 180
Nozzle diameter is 1.8 drilled it out bigger
Let the machine heat up for an hour after I extrude the plastic up to the nozzle (wait 30 mins to do this)
Version is 1.2
laser cut case from filastruder store with spacers for the bottom mount of the motor
Have used tape multiple times to ensure a tight fit
Any ideas? I was thinking of getting a new hex socket since that's the area of failure and maybe the edges are slightly warn out.
]]>