Every printer is different - even 2 of the same model will vary, just as every roll of filament is different - even from the same manufacturer (just like people are all different - even twins have differences)

No one can tell you any special numbers that are going to magically work for your printer and your filament. Sure, they can offer suggestions, but if you aren't willing to put in the effort to actually do the calibrations yourself on your printer, then you may as well pack it up and sell it now.

Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh, but you keep asking for help - both publicly and privately - yet don't seem to be willing to put in a little time and effort at least trying the things that are being suggested to you... it seems more like you want someone to offer you magic settings on a silver platter. Sorry, but those magic settings don't exist.

If you are serious about wanting to get your printer running better then you have to take the time to do the calibrations. there is no getting around it.
Yes, it sometimes seems like 2 steps forward, 3 steps back, but in the long run it is well worth the effort in learning how to properly calibrate things.

Every time I load up a new roll of filament, I do three initial calibrations.

• Average filament diameter (it is very rare to have a roll average out to exactly 1.75mm, and it does make a difference in print accuracy)

• Extrusion multiplier (for proper wall thickness)

• Temperature calibration (to find the ideal temp for that particular roll)

Each one of these calibrations has a specific purpose and the settings will be unique to that particular roll of filament. I save a new profile in Slic3r's filament settings with that roll's color name & type and its specific settings - I like to change colors frequently, so saving a new profile for each roll makes my life much easier. I currently have 13 different filament settings (i am actually missing a couple of colors in there, having only started saving for each color in the last month or so - HUGE time saver!)

When I run out of a color and get a new roll, those same calibrations will be done again for the new roll and the new settings saved under that color name/type so all I have to do is pick the setting for that color.

The point is, every new roll gets the same treatment - calibration, calibration, calibration. But once it is done for that roll, it is done until that roll runs out.

carl_m1968 wrote:

For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.

Could you explain the logic behind this?

Personal experience of many years printing.

For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.

Could you explain the logic behind this?

Also when I move up the temperature on the extruder it shuts the printer off

Then try lowering your extruder temp 225, and your bed to 90. Maybe print is staying too hot too long. What speed are you printing at?. For a .10 layer height you should be in the low 20mm/s or lower even. Lower layer height means lower speed.

Hello I own a solidoodle workbench, and I recently bought the 1.75 solidoodle abs. When I printed the keychain I generally use to test filament the pieces split in half. I am using a 40% infill the extruder is heated to 225 degrees and the print bed is 100 degrees

There is not really a golden one number fits all printers. The issue is there is variance in each printer in regards to actual temp versus reported temp. They all vary plus or minus a few degrees. Then there is the issue with filament. Each batch will have different properties that will affect the temperature at which it prints and the speed needed to print it.

If you are getting splitting it is caused by poor layer adhesion due to low temps. Try raising your temp 5 to 10 degrees. Also uneven cooling will cause it. Make sure you printer is enclosed and maybe lower the bed temp. Reduce your infill. For parts that don't need to be strong like that keychain and similar a 10 to 20% fill is more than enough and allows for more even cooling.