Is there already a thread that discusses the settings for filament diameter vs extrusion multiplier and the width of the line the printer makes?

AZERATE wrote:

Also, make sure your bed heater wire on the left is firm and snug in the terminal. Either it is slipping out or you need to trim the bare wire back about 4mm. This could be a fire hazard.

I crammed it in all the way back to the terminal, so ill trim it like you suggest. I didn't know that was bad, I have a couple of wires like that.

Thank you carl for all the info.

Your very welcome. That's what we veterans hang around for, to share our experience. On the subject of the exposed wire. It is bad anytime regardless of the voltage, current, or purpose of the wire to have exposed metal. If that exposed wire comes into contact with another exposed wire or metal frame part it could cause a short and even a fire.

Not to scare you but under the right circumstances these printers could burn your home or shop to the ground if safe wiring and handling practices are not observed.

Also, make sure your bed heater wire on the left is firm and snug in the terminal. Either it is slipping out or you need to trim the bare wire back about 4mm. This could be a fire hazard.

I crammed it in all the way back to the terminal, so ill trim it like you suggest. I didn't know that was bad, I have a couple of wires like that.

Thank you carl for all the info.

So this means I am severely under powered right now, will this damage the printer or the board?

Probably won't damage anything but if you draw more than the power supply can output, the supply will probably just cut off completely. Most supplies have overcurrent protection built in.

Look for something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulated-Power … 27ea9d9224

Current is added by every device you have. If you have a bed that takes 11, and an extruder that takes 5, that's 16. But then you also have to power motors, your board, and your fans. As far as amps go, it's way better to have too many than too few.

In regards to your power supply the very minimal supply for any printer would be 25 amps. Preferably 30 or more would be better. The bed alone while heating can pull more than 6 amps. Add 2 for hotend and about .50 for each motor and you get the picture.

Your new supply might get you powered up but it will tank once the heaters start.

So this means I am severely under powered right now, will this damage the printer or the board?

Regarding amps/volts/watts could you share more info on that?

The wiki says I should supply between 7v and 30v and doesn't specify the amps.
The vendor of my board says I should supply 12V and 16-20A from a 3-500 watt power supply.

From what I read the bed and nozzle draw something like 11 and 5 amps each? Do those stack to require 16A or do you just go with the highest one which is 11?

The original power brick that came with my solidoodle is marked 12V 10A does this mean it was under powered?
Will the 12V 5A brick damage the printer?

In regards to your power supply the very minimal supply for any printer would be 25 amps. Preferably 30 or more would be better. The bed alone while heating can pull more than 6 amps. Add 2 for hotend and about .50 for each motor and you get the picture.

Your new supply might get you powered up but it will tank once the heaters start.

As far as positive and negative this is what I found on the wiki.

Sanguinololu wiki:
Powering Sanguinololu
Your chosen power solution will determine what kind of power requirements will be in play:

Screw terminal: Connect your power supply with at least 7V and at most 30V to the screw terminal. The negative lead is the one closest to the screw hole.

Based on this info, I have wired my board incorrectly and should flip the red and blue wires going into the screw terminal. Is this correct?

This also brings up another problem.
The board vendor says this:
Note that if you use the Sanguinololu to run a heated bed directly it will draw approx 10A through the heated bed MOSFET. Your power supply needs to be at least 300W, preferably 500W, to supply this. Check the 12V power rating, which need to be 16-20A.

I currently have a 12V 5A power supply that I got on ebay for LED strips/CCTV systems. I realize this is a mistake and I ordered a 12V 10A power supply which will arrive on monday but I'm confused. The power supply sold by solidoodle comes in 120w and 150w versions but the vendor says I need up to 500w?

To make matters worse, not sure about your new board but the old one was designed to use multiple power connector configurations. If you had installed your new connector on the old board the the square pin middle left would be 12 volts and the round pin on the same axis to the right would be ground. You have to look closely at the holes and the planes/lands compose of the copper traces that they all connect to. They are marked but only work in specific patterns.

I connected the black wire to the com port and the red wire to v/ma.
I switched my dial to DCV 20.
I connected the power supply to the wall with the female jack adapter attached and touched the black wire tip to the contact marked negative and the red wire tip to the side marked positive.
The meter gave me a reading of 12.x. I then reversed the tips and the meter gave me a reading of -12.x.

From this I concluded that the female jack adapter is correctly marked and that negative is negative and positive is positive.

I wired it up to my board as shown in the attached picture.

Have I done everything correctly?

Do the motors themselves need to be cooled or is it just the stepping chips? I only have one extra 2 pin header connection and I think it might be best to add that fan to the nozzle.