E3D Lite6 w/ Hobb Goblin, Volcano .6 nozzle at .3951 layer height
]]>E3D Lite6 w/ Hobb Goblin, Volcano .6 nozzle at .3951 layer height
]]>mdrVB6 wrote:Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more? I guess its possible but I feel like if your steps per mm were good before it shouldn't really make a difference. Maybe if you were getting slipping on retractions before the sharper teeth are helping or something.
Since the HG drive diameter is considerably smaller than the standard SD drive gear (about 1/2 the diameter); you steps /mm need to be adjusted higher. More steps / mm equals more precision in extruding...it is akin to going from 1/16 stepper drivers to 1/32.
^ what he said.
]]>Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more?
I sure can. I'll be away from my computer until tonight, so I'll post a couple before the day is out
]]>Pics of how it cleared up your prints just a bit more? I guess its possible but I feel like if your steps per mm were good before it shouldn't really make a difference. Maybe if you were getting slipping on retractions before the sharper teeth are helping or something.
Since the HG drive diameter is considerably smaller than the standard SD drive gear (about 1/2 the diameter); you steps /mm need to be adjusted higher. More steps / mm equals more precision in extruding...it is akin to going from 1/16 stepper drivers to 1/32.
]]>http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … ruder.html
All I've done with it so far is feed the filament by hand and see that it does seem to work, actual printing remains to be seen...
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The E3D Hobb Goblin is an upgrade to your extruder gear. The teeth are finer/sharper, and because of it's smaller profile, gives a bit more torque.
Here's a comparison of the Hobb Goblin vs stock gear. 
I have already been testing it on various ABS, PLA, SSPLA, and Nylon, so all the norm for us. As an added bonus, if one were to attempt printing Carbon Fiber, it will grip it no problem, and E3D claim it to work just as well on flexible materials. SSPLA is hands down the most brittle filament I've come across and the Hobb Goblin did the job with far less breaking than with the stock gear (which only happened when loading filament).
I am impressed once again with E3D since a small $15 part that took less than one minute to install cleared up my prints just a bit more, so I highly recommend it!
My prints come out cleaner now and can almost give the silky results my Bulldog XL has. Keyword being "almost". 
If you are interested in this little gem, there are a couple points you should know:
*You will need to open EEPROM and adjust your steps per mm to the 285 ballpark for users with 1/32 stepping.
*This CANNOT be used with the traditional tension arm Lawsy designed, so wardjr was kind enough to whip up an adjusted design. This requires a 625zz bearing. So SD2/3 users are golden, but others will need a new radial bearing. Fortunately, they are only $5 +/- so it shouldn't be a problem.
The reason for this adjustment is because since the outer diameter of the Hobb Goblin is smaller, it creates a void between the bearing and the gear.
*There are two different sizes available; 5mm or 8mm. SD users want 5mm since that is the diameter of the motor shaft.
*This is a simple mechanical upgrade. So although I personally recommend a E3D hotend, one is not required to use the Hobb Goblin!
As usual, operators at Filastruder are awaiting your calls to fulfill all your E3D
needs!