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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/11037/" />
	<updated>2015-05-12T11:13:29Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/11037/pla-sticks-abs-not/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95567/#p95567" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I tape the entire underside of the plate, fiberglas and heater with Kapton.&nbsp; <br />I found a new 150 X 150 heater for 20$ at, of all places Walmart! (recommended by EBay)&nbsp; I guess I&#039;d have to sandwich it between the original plate and an undrilled piece of aluminum and the glass on top of it all, as the heater has no holes.&nbsp; &nbsp;<br />May have to try it.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-12T11:13:29Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95567/#p95567</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95543/#p95543" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I ramp my SD3 bed up to 115 and my goodness, the stickyness! to give the standard SD heat pad a bit of a kick in the ass, glue hte edges of hte firebreglass insulation down with kaypaton tape.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[rantinan]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10313/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-12T02:56:13Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95543/#p95543</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95530/#p95530" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>ha, mine is a 150 x 150 - on a 4.75mm thick piece of aluminum it takes nearly 20 minutes to get to 105 - but, like i said, once it gets there it holds it very nicely.</p><p>with the way the SD4 leveling screws are, the biggest I could go would be about 175 x 175, and that isnt gonna happen without either special ordering that size, or some reconfiguring to get the heat pad above the leveling screws...</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[heartless]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-12T01:42:20Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95530/#p95530</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95491/#p95491" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Don&#039;t know if the stock bed will get to 110.&nbsp; It takes its&#039; sweet time to get to 105.&nbsp; I may try higher.&nbsp; I&#039;m printing a few smaller items, and getting minimal to no warping, and good adhesion. <br />Gonna go searching for a 150 X 150 bed heater.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-11T20:25:56Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95491/#p95491</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95459/#p95459" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I have gone as high as 110 on the bed temp, but 105 &quot;should&quot; be sufficient... </p><p>since I rebuilt my heated bed with a thicker piece of aluminum to get rid of the warped stock bed it takes forever for my bed to reach temp - it holds really nice once it does get there, tho! LOL one of these days I will replace the stock heat pad with something better...</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[heartless]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-11T13:43:17Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95459/#p95459</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95305/#p95305" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Got busy yesterday couldn&#039;t print much.&nbsp; But... seems like 105 is the magic #, at least for now.&nbsp; Printed a calibration cube - no problem.&nbsp; Am now printing Claghorn&#039;s nozzle cleaner, first time in ABS, maybe it won&#039;t break this time.&nbsp; <br />Heartless&nbsp; I have and have used the Glue Stick, it may be my next try, if the 105 &amp; hairspray don&#039;t work.</p><p>Thanx</p><p>Ski</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-09T18:14:43Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95305/#p95305</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95182/#p95182" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>if you still have problems with the ABS sticking with hairspray at 105 bed temp, go pick up a stick of Elmer&#039;s washable school glue in glue stick form - it goes on purple, dries clear. This is what I use and rarely have a problem with prints not sticking anymore (never did get the hairspray to work for me to print on - works a treat for holding the glass to kapton covered aluminum bed, tho! <img src="https://www.soliforum.com/img/smilies/wink.png" width="15" height="15" alt="wink" /> ).</p><p>to use, warm the bed to somewhere between 50 &amp; 75. use the glue stick over the print area in a cross hatch pattern. For extra &quot;stick&quot; I have been doing diagonal crosshatching over that, too - especially for larger items. Then finish heating the bed to desired temp (i use 105) and print as normal. (be sure your bed is properly leveled before applying the glue stick)</p><p>I can usually get multiple prints out of one application by simply wiping gently with a wet paper towel between prints to reactivate the glue a bit. If needed, I touch up spots that may have peeled up with a print (if I get in too much of a hurry and don&#039;t let it cool enough to pop the print off easily)</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[heartless]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/10399/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-08T12:23:34Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95182/#p95182</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95153/#p95153" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Next print will be @ 105.&nbsp; Maybe wasn&#039;t going hi enough. I have a home made plexiglas enclosure.&nbsp; Trying the print now in PLA, just to give me some reassurance the thing still works......&nbsp; Still a little shaky on the first layer, that may be cuz I took the Kapton off the plate,never used it anyway - always had the glass over top.&nbsp; Will let you know after this print - probably much later.....</p><p>Thanx</p><p>Ski</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-07T23:13:06Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95153/#p95153</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95152/#p95152" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>For ABS use plenty of squish on that first layer.<br />Bed temp of at least 105<br />Enclosure (if nothing else use some cardboard or Saran Wrap on the sides)&nbsp; enclosing the top is also important. <br />Glass and hairspray with the above should solve your problems.<br />If not you can reduce your first layer extrusion width to roughly half.&nbsp; This will create more tool paths on the first layer and help with adhesion.&nbsp; I am not a fan of Brim but if all else fails a 3mm Brim will help.<br />Also if you have one corner lifting then most likely the bed isn&#039;t level or you have a cold spot.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[wardjr]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/2291/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-07T23:05:39Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95152/#p95152</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[PLA Sticks - ABS Not]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/95149/#p95149" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Been using mostly PLA for near 18 mo.&nbsp; Got it to where I need a razor blade and a little assistance to get the print off the heated - Aqua Netted glass.&nbsp; Just got 2 new rolls of ABS to hopefully create Lawsys&#039; carriages.&nbsp; I can&#039;t get the whole print to stick for love nor money.&nbsp; Printing at 210/95, then 210/90 - /85 - /80 pretty much the same - won&#039;t entirely stick down.&nbsp; Have messed with Z height, even set all of the VREF settings.&nbsp; Now I have nice smooth sided prints, but one or more corners won&#039;t stick and warps, or the print just eventually comes loose.&nbsp; Got a little bit better with some blue printers tape, still won&#039;t fully stick.&nbsp; </p><p>Suggestions??</p><p>TIA<br />Ski</p><p>PS - for those that haven&#039;t yet checked the VREF settings - do so!&nbsp; My extruder alone was factory set to .85 - (same) factory recommends .25 - made a noticible difference.&nbsp; Got the others to 1.03, 1.04, etc need to be 1.0 - hafta do a little more.&nbsp; Need better light AND a plastic screwdriver......&nbsp; Maybe I&#039;ll print one........??</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[Ski52]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/3790/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-05-07T22:30:12Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/95149/#p95149</id>
		</entry>
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