]]>could someone please post a picture of where the Green E1 and E2 cables connect to the main board, i received my daughter board and im trying to get everything back together but not all the connections are labeled. Also if anyone could post a picture of the cables connected to the LED and FAN port on the motherboard that would be awesome!
E2 plugs into the one labeled Z-MOT, and E1 into E-MOT. So starting from the power plug, you have X, Y, E2, E1.
The fan and LED headers are both just 12V so all the fans and the LED strip are plugged into splitters and into these headers.
In the mean time I'm wondering, is it say the jumper the fuse so I can play with our new printer? My thought is that if they are sending a new board and the two boards are powered separately whats the worst that can happen. Fry more of the daughter board that's getting replaced anyway?
]]>Thank you,
Since I know the thermal fuse has burned out, is there any way I can check the FB1? Just check if it is open circuit?
This part is just a noise filter for ground so it won't have any voltage differential across it. You could check for continuity. Although your board should still work even if this was blown.
I just wanted to post and say that this thread was very helpful in identifying the same problem in my workbench printer as well. I contacted solidoodle support for a replacement board. If this is a reoccurring problem solidoodle may want to look into the cause of it.
Always happy to help. I'll look into specs and also keep an eye out and ask support if this is becoming a common issue and decide if I need to make a design change. It should be as simple as using a slightly higher rated fuse to handle the current but also low enough to protect the rest of the board.
]]>1. Cut the legs on the 5V regulator (U13) to disconnect it
2. Solder the pads of R1 (located under the Solidoodle logo) to create a solder bridge
This will pull 5V from the motherboard instead of using the on board regulator.
By the way, have you submitted a ticket with support? If you need a replacement board then I would prefer you go through the support website rather than privately through here just so we have an actual record of it.
]]>1. VIN (probe the 2 holes in the board next to FB1. Should be 12V.
2. Each of the legs of the 5V regulator (U13) located above the Solidoodle logo. Probe each one separately to ground. The one on the left should be 12V and the one on the right 5V.
3. Power supply output. On the 4-pin connector, the top 2 pins (spaced further apart) are positive, and the bottom 2 are negative. Should be 12V.
]]>I checked the FB1 and '10', nothing seems wrong. 