SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Dealing with warped parts

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T21:34:43Z

jon_bondy wrote:

I put the four parts in the oven with zip ties around top and bottom, and a weight on the top. Ten minutes at 200: nothing. Another 10 minutes at 225: nothing. Another 10 minutes at 250: nothing. I gave up then...

Try 250? 225 fahrenheit is only 107celsius, which is barely above the 100 degree softening temp for abs. It probably will only work for thin objects that warped (because they can get the temp of the oven quickly, and thicker objects will both be more strongly warped and harder to get to softened temp.

My oven regularly runs 25 degrees cool, so if I set to 225 it would only be 200 fahrenheit= 93celsius, below abs's softening point.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T20:39:24Z

Maybe create a tab on the part that you can cut away after the parts have cooled.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T19:01:26Z

I put the four parts in the oven with zip ties around top and bottom, and a weight on the top. Ten minutes at 200: nothing. Another 10 minutes at 225: nothing. Another 10 minutes at 250: nothing. I gave up then...

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T13:22:19Z

I printed an ipad stand, it warped like crazy,
had to print thing thing 4 times due to clogs or step skips, was just about to give up when I finally finished.

the straighten the warped parts I put it into a low oven for ten minutes, to soften the whole model, then bent the whole thing so that it sat flat on the table.

you may find this useful warm the whole part then make the little adjustments that you need to make to the model to get it to all fit together.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T08:39:02Z

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Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T03:06:06Z

jon_bondy wrote:

How would nylon cable/zip ties hold up in an oven at 200 F? 300 F? How long would you recommend? Would I just check it every 15 minutes until it is "done"? Can I print a turkey popup to tell me when it is ready ?

The nylon has a similar melting range of ABS, but should be fine at 200-300*F I think it depends on the exact kind of nylon that is used as some melts lower and some melts higher than the transition of ABS. I wouldn't expect it to deform your parts much, but when I tried, it did remove the small warping, letting the parts line up better. I did take it straight from the oven to my vapor bath so that it would fuse together while still hot and mating well. Sometimes these parts have a tendency to warp a decent bit over the next day or so. It is better to let them warp together if they do warp at all.

It took about 10 minutes in the oven when I tried it. I just put a webcam in the oven and monitored it from across town and then used my iphone app, post-process pre-presto (C), to jack it up and give it a quick broil to crisp the edges before shutting it down immediately.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-21T01:28:38Z

How would nylon cable/zip ties hold up in an oven at 200 F? 300 F? How long would you recommend? Would I just check it every 15 minutes until it is "done"? Can I print a turkey popup to tell me when it is ready ?

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T17:51:07Z

Ian hit it right on the head. With that design, you could put zip ties at the top and bottom and get them pretty close to aligned. Then a quick vapor bath would fuse them together so that you could work on cleaning up the whole thing together. Then one more shot in the bath to give it a polished look... Another suggestion that I've tried on pieces needing closer tolerances and you don't want to remove any material if possible, is to clamp them together, again probably zip ties in this case, and bake them for a little while. If you set your oven to 200-300 and let it sit for a while, it may try to unwarp into the an easier mate. Then go through the above process. I've tried this a few times and it seemed like it worked well, but I'm not sure if it was dumb luck or a great idea.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T17:23:31Z

IanJohnson wrote:

Even if it isn't the intention, or you will paint it later, I think the alternating black/white sections look cool.

Funny. I was printing everything in black when my printers stopped working (all due to problems with the hot ends). I have no idea whether the black filament is really a problem, or merely a scapegoat, but in the midst of all of my woes, I abandoned black. So, the black-and-white is more an accident than intentional. But I agree it looks interesting! Maybe I should have printed it as a dozen slices, alternating colors. Next time!

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T17:18:41Z

I think he means to go ahead and fuse them together with the edges aligned closely as you can through the brute force of the zip ties. Some edges might still be sticking out a little, so trim or sand them flush, then clean up the mess with another shot of vapor. If the dimensions of the final pieced together part are critical. then this might not be good enough. If it just needs to look good and you have a couple mm to play with you might be able to get by.

Even if it isn't the intention, or you will paint it later, I think the alternating black/white sections look cool.

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T16:46:57Z

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm confused, though, because you say to fuse them [together?] and then make the edges clean and then sand them. Did you say these things in chronological order?

Re: Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T16:40:46Z

Jon, have you got a hot hobby knife yet? I would get one of those for this kind if thing. It sliced through the abs like butter. I would use a zip tie to clamp them into place, fuse them in a vapor bath, use the knife to mate the edges cleanly, sand with a belt sander and give it one more bath. It has been my process for joining large prints and I've been quite pleased.

Dealing with warped parts

2013-01-20T15:54:13Z

I printed 4 of these things because the print volume was too small to print the object all in one go. None of them came out perfectly, because (even with rims) the corners pulled up a bit. This caused distortion throughout the parts. It would not matter much if they did not have to mate to each other, but they are distorted in every dimension.

I could try to machine them true, but finding a reference surface is pretty difficult. The bottom is clearly out. The tops might be better, but you're still left with trying to find exactly how to rotate the part before cleaning off the edge. And take too much off, or do it at the wrong angle, and the parts would misfit differently.

I considered getting an aluminum plate and putting adhesive backed sandpaper on both sides and pulling it back and forth at each joint, until the two sides were flat. Seems like a lot of work

Any other thoughts?

BTW, the object in question will become a smoke ring (vortex) generator: I'm putting a woofer on the bottom and driving it all with an Arduino (to allow for custom pulse wave shapes)