The E3D is working pretty good now, but what is causing this in the corners? The taper inwards then flatten back out.

Excessive heat. Lower your bed temp and/or use a fan for small pieces like that, or print multiple pieces simultaneously.

How do I change the z Offset? I use the manual levelling tool and get the bed as perceft as I can, then when printing, the nozzle is higher than when using the tool and the plastic is then not adhering to the bed. The Increase in temp did help, but it still is not printing correctly.

The Z offset is under printer settings in Slic3r. Just set it for a value you think it needs to be to close the gap. Since the bed moves down I believe it should be a positive value. Just stand by the power switch in case you get it wrong and the nozzle does not dig in to the glass.

If its smallish then run @ 220  and bed @90

If its large I run it @ 230-240 and bed @85

I am using this carriage mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:707530

Printed with XYZ White Filament (last of this crap luckily).

What went wrong?

Hard to tell without knowing your settings.

oscahie wrote:

If the drive is turning but the filament isn't being sucked down then either your idler wheel is not pushing against the wheel or (most likely) your hot-end is jammed.

Surely you joke, an E3D getting a jam?

He never said if it was clicking or not. If it is jammed then it would click as the gear slips. He also said if he pushes it does feed. Also rules out a jam.

I would make sure the head is assembled and the motor assembly is snapped in to the carriage correctly. Make sure the spring that pulls the idler wheel is attached and it touches the feed gear with some force when there is no filament loaded. It sounds to me the idler is not pushing the filament against the motor gear.

I was thinking the same Carl I have never herd of a E3d jamming yet and dont think we ever will there amazing for the cost definitely worth it...

As carl said may be to do with your actual feed set up rather than the E3D itself matey