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Just had another thought....maybe my on/off switch is bad!  its possible that when I disassembled it this weekend something moved in the switch that was causing the failure.  I might just pre-preemptively replace this guy, just in case.

it says flex...but it is weird that yours works fine without modification, yet mine does not.

Maybe I got a "bad" one?

I spent more time this weekend playing with and hopefully reduced the number of "unknowns".  First by adding more insulation to my 'new' heater cartridge clip (the OEM had issues).

Next, per a video online on converting an ATX supply for RepRap,
-I trimmed and insulated all extra wires.
- connected the orange "sense" wire to the orange line (3.3v)
- connected brown wire to ground (also something to do with 3.3v?)

Hooked everything back up (except my rPi) , ran my printer for maybe 10 minutes before it shutoff again.  Then tried plugging the rPi back into my 5v plug and ran the printer about 8 hours.  No failures. 

So I am included to believe 2 things: those sense wires needed to be shorted out & I still need a heavy 5v load to keep the psu balanced.

I will update in a couple of days if I have more issues, but hopefully I am good to go.

Do you have a link or a picture of the supply you are using? The one I used looked exactly like stock with exception. It had many more wires. All I did with mine was take one ground to the switch. Then the green to the switch.  I spliced the stock connectors to the appropriate lines and all was good. Now that I have moved to a Ramps it only uses 12 volts. So the connector that had 3.3 and 5 volts is now laying loose in the bottom connrcted to nothing. My power supply runs strong, never shuts down and throttles as it should based on load. Sounds to me like you are not using a flex ATX supply or you have something seriously wrong in your printers 12 volt wiring.

Next, per a video online on converting an ATX supply for RepRap,
-I trimmed and insulated all extra wires.
- connected the orange "sense" wire to the orange line (3.3v)
- connected brown wire to ground (also something to do with 3.3v?)

Hooked everything back up (except my rPi) , ran my printer for maybe 10 minutes before it shutoff again.  Then tried plugging the rPi back into my 5v plug and ran the printer about 8 hours.  No failures. 

So I am included to believe 2 things: those sense wires needed to be shorted out & I still need a heavy 5v load to keep the psu balanced.

I will update in a couple of days if I have more issues, but hopefully I am good to go.

carl_m1968 wrote:

rawkstar320 wrote:

New powersupply is still randomly shutting down, even with a 2amp load on the 5v line.  Might have to hack the power protection circuit I guess... :-/

I have replaced mine with a 320 watt flex ATX supply I got at Microcenter. Looks like the original just higher wattage. it has all the outputs a PC would use like 3.3, 5 and 12. All I did was hooked up the 12 and left the 3.3 and 5 hanging. I have had no issue.

If you are having random shutdowns then something is overloading your supply. Maybe your heater cartridge is shorting against the brass heat block on certain moves or the wires are shorting together. Or maybe your bed is shorted and pulling too much current. I would see if you could get or borrow one of those clamp on style current meters and see what the current draw on that 12 volt line is while you are printing.

You mean this one?

http://www.microcenter.com/product/4173 … wer_Supply

I may be wrong, but didnt you suggest that he get a higher wattage supply since you had a 350W?

carl_m1968 wrote:

I would suggest you get pne with a higher than stock wattage. I bought one that does 350 watts with more current on the 12 volt rail. This will aid in faster bed heating and more stable temps on the bed and hotend. You will notice the lights pulse with the heat cycles. This is due to the stock supply being under rated.

Maybe, I was actually trying to find the model I bought. With it mounted I cant see the label or specs anymore so I was unsure what it's wattage was. I know it was more than stock. In any case if it is shutting down, that is not normal and something is wrong in his machine. You could go with a 600 watt PC supply and still have the same issue or maybe even fire then. Something on his 12 volt rail is shorting or getting loaded way beyond the normal limit.

rawkstar320 wrote:

New powersupply is still randomly shutting down, even with a 2amp load on the 5v line.  Might have to hack the power protection circuit I guess... :-/

I have replaced mine with a 320 watt flex ATX supply I got at Microcenter. Looks like the original just higher wattage. it has all the outputs a PC would use like 3.3, 5 and 12. All I did was hooked up the 12 and left the 3.3 and 5 hanging. I have had no issue.

If you are having random shutdowns then something is overloading your supply. Maybe your heater cartridge is shorting against the brass heat block on certain moves or the wires are shorting together. Or maybe your bed is shorted and pulling too much current. I would see if you could get or borrow one of those clamp on style current meters and see what the current draw on that 12 volt line is while you are printing.

You mean this one?

http://www.microcenter.com/product/4173 … wer_Supply

I may be wrong, but didnt you suggest that he get a higher wattage supply since you had a 350W?

New powersupply is still randomly shutting down, even with a 2amp load on the 5v line.  Might have to hack the power protection circuit I guess... :-/

I have replaced mine with a 320 watt flex ATX supply I got at Microcenter. Looks like the original just higher wattage. it has all the outputs a PC would use like 3.3, 5 and 12. All I did was hooked up the 12 and left the 3.3 and 5 hanging. I have had no issue.

If you are having random shutdowns then something is overloading your supply. Maybe your heater cartridge is shorting against the brass heat block on certain moves or the wires are shorting together. Or maybe your bed is shorted and pulling too much current. I would see if you could get or borrow one of those clamp on style current meters and see what the current draw on that 12 volt line is while you are printing.

rawkstar320 wrote:

I just wanted to pass some useful information after replacing my power supply this weekend.  I turned my print and POP! that it was...a dead Da Vinci...

Just signed up to say thank you very much . . .had exactly the same thing happen, over a month trying to get a response out of XYZ's European support team, without success.

I haven't even got a smaller flex type power supply, just threw one on, from a scrap PC and success!

Thanks again

Awesome! Just do some testing and make sure it doesn't power off randomly. Apparently ATX PSU s like have have a balanced 12v and 5v line, it seems common for people to add a 1amp load to the 5v line in order to balance the system and avoid random shutdowns.

I just wanted to pass some useful information after replacing my power supply this weekend.  I turned my print and POP! that it was...a dead Da Vinci...

Just signed up to say thank you very much . . .had exactly the same thing happen, over a month trying to get a response out of XYZ's European support team, without success.

I haven't even got a smaller flex type power supply, just threw one on, from a scrap PC and success!

Thanks again

I could still be wrong, I am basing this off of my electrical courses that I took when working in my mechanical engineering degree. So...I'll double check with an electrical engineer.

I dont notice the flicker since the swap, and the Solid Gear is a 320watt - vs the stock 200 watt.  So it is a bit more powerful - my main goal was to make sure it fit in the same spot as the old one. 

Technically, a higher amperage 12v rail will not cause the bed/extruder to heat up faster...thats not how a heater works. 

That being said, I think I need to add a load to the 5v rail to balance the power supply - it randomly shuts down and it appears to be a common problem with using an ATX style power supply.

Actually your voltage will drop lower if you have an underated power supply which is why a bigger one heats faster. Still, great job,,, and it is what I will do if I ever need to replace one.

I dont notice the flicker since the swap, and the Solid Gear is a 320watt - vs the stock 200 watt.  So it is a bit more powerful - my main goal was to make sure it fit in the same spot as the old one. 

Technically, a higher amperage 12v rail will not cause the bed/extruder to heat up faster...thats not how a heater works. 

That being said, I think I need to add a load to the 5v rail to balance the power supply - it randomly shuts down and it appears to be a common problem with using an ATX style power supply.

A heater is a resistive load. The more current that is applied to it, the faster it will heat. I can confirm the higher wattage supply decreased my bed heating time by 7 minutes. It now only takes about 5 to reach 110.

I also have the same problem with my delta right now. The power supply is failing and if I try to heat the bed it will not go above 65 when at first it would go to 95 when installed. I plane to get a 75 amp server supply for it and not worry about it any more.

 
Technically, a higher amperage 12v rail will not cause the bed/extruder to heat up faster...thats not how a heater works.

Really??? That is exactly how a heater works, especially if the original amperage output is inadequate.