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	<title type="html"><![CDATA[SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
	<link rel="self" href="https://www.soliforum.com/feed/atom/topic/10510/" />
	<updated>2015-03-25T22:05:51Z</updated>
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	<id>https://www.soliforum.com/topic/10510/heated-bed-does-not-heat-up-anymore/</id>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90848/#p90848" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>I could not get a solder hold, so I cleaned a larger area, soldered, failed, then glued it as tight as possible and soldered a short wire to the initial failed point to relieve the mechanical stress. Figured the downforce from the glass will hold it in place, hopefully.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[kszwab]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6745/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-25T22:05:51Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90848/#p90848</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90752/#p90752" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<div class="quotebox"><cite>kszwab wrote:</cite><blockquote><p>Open circuit measuring from the wires side with the board disconnected.</p><p>I took the glass bed off and I can see that one wire is off since they used HUGE blob solder points instead of spreading the twisted wires on a wider area and doing an elegant spread solder to maximize the contact area, better current flow and better mechanical leverage.</p><p>I guess in time the pretty high current cooks off the thin copper at the contact point and falls off.</p><p>Too tired to fix it tonight, will take it off tomorrow slowly to do it right and try to resolder it on a wider area to avoid the problem in the future.</p></blockquote></div><p>There is a reason behind the blob solder. The heater substrate is acetate film it will melt if the heat of a soldering iron is kept on it long enough to actuallt flow the solder. So they do a quick tack and hope it is enough to hold.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[carl_m1968]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/7731/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-25T02:23:50Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90752/#p90752</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90751/#p90751" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Solder does not stick to the heater bed filament. I used rosin core solder, but...</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[kszwab]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6745/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-25T02:20:12Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90751/#p90751</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90650/#p90650" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Open circuit measuring from the wires side with the board disconnected.</p><p>I took the glass bed off and I can see that one wire is off since they used HUGE blob solder points instead of spreading the twisted wires on a wider area and doing an elegant spread solder to maximize the contact area, better current flow and better mechanical leverage.</p><p>I guess in time the pretty high current cooks off the thin copper at the contact point and falls off.</p><p>Too tired to fix it tonight, will take it off tomorrow slowly to do it right and try to resolder it on a wider area to avoid the problem in the future.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[kszwab]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6745/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-24T04:00:50Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90650/#p90650</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Re: Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90550/#p90550" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>In the back of the bed there are 2 wires both should be black and if you open the back of the printer you can see the wires on the left side of the board just look for the 2 screws with the black wires.</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[kev0175]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/9677/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-22T22:27:15Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90550/#p90550</id>
		</entry>
		<entry>
			<title type="html"><![CDATA[Heated bed does not heat up anymore]]></title>
			<link rel="alternate" href="https://www.soliforum.com/post/90543/#p90543" />
			<content type="html"><![CDATA[<p>Never ending story of good Davinci products. Suddenly on one of my Davinci 1.0&#039;s the heated bed does not heat up anymore. Stays at 31C. Printed fine, then next print never heats up the bed.</p><p>Doing a calibrate does not heat up the bed, either.</p><p>Loose connections ? Can the wires feeding the bed heater break because of the up/down movement ?</p><p>Which wires do I need to check ? The black ones going to the bed ?</p><p>I do not see a connector, do I need to trace it to the board and disconnect from there ?</p><p>What should be the resistance of the heating element ?</p><p>Is this a common issue with the heated glass bed or an issue with the driver from the board side ?</p>]]></content>
			<author>
				<name><![CDATA[kszwab]]></name>
				<uri>https://www.soliforum.com/user/6745/</uri>
			</author>
			<updated>2015-03-22T20:35:21Z</updated>
			<id>https://www.soliforum.com/post/90543/#p90543</id>
		</entry>
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