Usually I can pop the parts off at 70 degrees with abs.

I print PLA on a chap glass plate treated with hair spray.
As Carl said let it coll and it should pop off.
That said I also commonly use a razer scraper to wedge prints off. And at one seminar I attended I saw peeople use a 4" putty knife and 3d printed hammer to remove prints from Ultimakers.  IMHO the key to a putty knife is a good wedge on the edge. and a smooth edge . If you are pacing the edge against air  inbetweeen the glass and the plastic little force is needed. the moment the edge is hitting the part then the force is sideways instead of upward.
Tin

I actually use a razor blade scraper to get under the edge to break the seal if I am in a hurry and can't wait a full hour for it to cool.

I love my new AIO xyz printer, but I can't get small objects off the print bed after I print them.  I've been leaving off the glue stick and everything prior to printing.  I'm afraid to whack it too hard with the putty knife contraption for fear of wrecking the calibration. Any suggestions? Is there a downside to bypassing the cool down period? Or should I let it cool down by itself?

I went through the same learning curve as to what works best on the bed.

Different brands of filament also act differently as to how well they adhere to the glass.

After allowing my print job to cool and finding part of the glass
attached to the model once with glue and once with nothing, that was getting to
expensive to replace.

I started using blue painters tape on the bed and never looked back.

Most of the time the models come off right after printing and at worse
pull some tape off.

At least I feel safe that the glass will not chip or crack.

Thanks. Any problem with leaving off the glue stick on parts that have a proportionally large flat bottom surface? They sure don't seem to dislodge during printing if I don't use glue.

If it works without glue that is fine. It only serves to aid adhesion.