Anyway, I spoke a bit too soon. I have tried two seperate parts being printed at one time to see how the  'cobweb' issue plays out.... it doesn't as the attached photo shows. When printed singly this wooden barrel prints really nice. I tried it once with the two barrels closer together and the results were far worse. I stopped it before it was 25% done. I then tried it with the two barrels spread fairly far apart. There is a ridge almost the entire hight of the barrels where the hot end leaves to move to the next plus the piece seen below.

Nickythegreek - My Slic3r screen doesn't seem to match up to your list. Below is a picture of it. I'm using the latest version of the software.

nickythegreek wrote:

Oh ya, that thing looks like a mess.  Do you have the STL so that we can see what it was supposed to be?  And a picture of a correctly printed one could help as well.

I know that Kendall in the SD Google Group made a .25mm profile that he has posted.

I noticed in another thread that it looks like your SD2 does not have a case.  As you get to more detailed objects, keeping the printing chamber at a constant temperature is more important and drafts from the side can hurt your print too.

I'll have to regenerate the STL file tomorrow. I have the case for the SD2 but find it cumbersome plus I didn't like the very short turn the filament has to make feeding into the Head. Also, it's hard to get into the SD2 through the front door, much easier through the sides. I could reverse the feed off the spool and have it come through the hole in the back. I found that with this particular ABS short curves cause it to break. Just feeding the end through the holes in the spool, they are about 2" apart, will result in a break at one of them after a day or two.

I received jams of the filament from the back to the extruder.   Also noticed that the filament would sometimes get grease from the rods on it.  My fix works very well.  Get some tube from your local Aquarium store.  It's dirt cheap, fixes the problem and you don't need any expensive ptfe coating.

Irish wrote:

One issue I do have is the corners on the base are lifting, all four corners in about 1/8" lifting about 10 degrees. I was wondering if this if from too cool a bed so I heated it to 100C on this last run but it's still there a bit.

I can print at 80C so long as I use a Brim of 4 or so: you might give that a try

Do you have some type of cover over your SD?   The open air drafts make for poor warping.

One issue I do have is the corners on the base are lifting, all four corners in about 1/8" lifting about 10 degrees. I was wondering if this if from too cool a bed so I heated it to 100C on this last run but it's still there a bit.

I can print at 80C so long as I use a Brim of 4 or so: you might give that a try

1. changed to Jet Natural ABS filament
2. put the metal case back on
3. Added NicktheGreeks retract code
4. placed a small (3") fan to blow on the main circut board on the SD2

I got a really good print of the above twin exhaust vents with no cobwebs. Only a bit of an issue in the curved area (botttom) of the large block close to the top. There I got some nodes hanging out which I surmized to come from too much filament. I backed the Feedrate down to 90 in the Manual Tab and it seemed to solve that problem.

Big thing is the print made it all the way through without the scewing noted in the earlier photo. I'll take a picture tomorrow and post it.

Thanks for the feedback as it's helped greatly.

One issue I do have is the corners on the base are lifting, all four corners in about 1/8" lifting about 10 degrees. I was wondering if this if from too cool a bed so I heated it to 100C on this last run but it's still there a bit.

Oh ya, that thing looks like a mess.  Do you have the STL so that we can see what it was supposed to be?  And a picture of a correctly printed one could help as well.

I know that Kendall in the SD Google Group made a .25mm profile that he has posted.

I noticed in another thread that it looks like your SD2 does not have a case.  As you get to more detailed objects, keeping the printing chamber at a constant temperature is more important and drafts from the side can hurt your print too.

I'll have to regenerate the STL file tomorrow. I have the case for the SD2 but find it cumbersome plus I didn't like the very short turn the filament has to make feeding into the Head. Also, it's hard to get into the SD2 through the front door, much easier through the sides. I could reverse the feed off the spool and have it come through the hole in the back. I found that with this particular ABS short curves cause it to break. Just feeding the end through the holes in the spool, they are about 2" apart, will result in a break at one of them after a day or two.

Is that PLA or ABS?  If PLA, you might have to reduce the temp.  Since PLA changes from solid to liquid rather than softening like ABS, the temperature range is much narrower and it is more prone to oozing since it is more runny.

It's ABS. I switched back to ABS because I wasn't getting the outter surfaces I wanted with the PLA.

I know that Kendall in the SD Google Group made a .25mm profile that he has posted.

I noticed in another thread that it looks like your SD2 does not have a case.  As you get to more detailed objects, keeping the printing chamber at a constant temperature is more important and drafts from the side can hurt your print too.

This should be controlled by your retraction settings. I use the following in my .3mm slic3r profile:

retract_before_travel = .5
retract_length = 1.2
retract_length_toolchange = 3
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = .03
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 75

Try lowering your extruder temp as well.

Nick, I'm printing at .2MM trying to get halfway between the .1MM and .3MM as I'm working in minatures I need fine surfaces. I know the Form1 unit would be the best but they won't have that out until May now and also I'm not sure I can justify the cost at my age. [grin] At 70 you start getting concerned about those things. [laugh]

I start at 95 on the bed and 195C on the filament. The filament changes to 193C after the first layer is printed. I've gotten some fantastic results but on column type pieces such as wooden barrels or oil drums. Anything else with variations of surface of multiple columns, areas, are basically a disaster or would take so much rework it would be easier to build by hand.

I think the issue was over heating of the controller board as it ran perfectly well this morning on another job. I've also had the Solidoodle crap out on me with instructions waiting but it doesn't work on them. I then took everything down and restarted a bit later and it worked perfectly well. Again I think a heat issue so a fan for the controller board appears to be a MUST.

Nick, thanks for those values, I'll give them a try.

retract_before_travel = .5
retract_length = 1.2
retract_length_toolchange = 3
retract_lift = 0
retract_restart_extra = .03
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 75

Try lowering your extruder temp as well.

Just trying to find out if anyone else has had this issue and how they might have resolved it.