SoliForum - 3D Printing Community — Com Port 3

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-28T14:57:10Z

your rumba came with a dozen or so connectors labeled "THERM." Use one of those, just splice it into the wires after you cut off the old connector. The rumba wiring kit has everything you should need--I didn't have to buy any connectors. It has wires for the steppers and endstops as well.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-28T13:39:20Z

does these connectors have a name or size, or even a link on amazon or ebay, cause i'm afraid i don't have these on my area ??

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-28T12:43:12Z

the LED plug in is next to the fan connections - circled in green in the pic. it is hard to see, but the inner pin (towards middle of board) is the positive, outer is negative. Don't worry too much if you get it plugged in wrong, if it doesn't work right off, unplug, turn the connector 180 degrees, plug it back in and it should work.

for a connector, I just used some old computer connectors - the ones that run to the front panel for the power & HD activity LEDs... but I happened to have several old towers sitting around to scavenge wiring from. used these same types of connectors for the end stop switches, and the thermistor connectors as well. everything else is hooked up via the screw terminals.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-28T09:35:19Z

now for one more thing, the 2 pins coming from solidoodle are too big to be put on the rumba board.

i need to know exactly what kind of pins to buy suitable for rumba
where to put the wires for the led

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-26T14:52:54Z

thanks all for great help

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-13T19:34:54Z

Indeed, thanks for the heads up! That's good to know for future people who need help. Navarisun, in that case, you should be fine to tie the two + and - together -- just make sure you tie the right two wires together!

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-13T19:20:51Z

soliryan wrote:

It's one heater, 4-pin connector (++--) to split the high current to stay within spec of the headers and connectors.

This is good to know and I would like you to know that we sure appreciate your presence here on the forum.
Thank You

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-13T15:32:19Z

It's one heater, 4-pin connector (++--) to split the high current to stay within spec of the headers and connectors.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T19:08:46Z

Looks like it... So you'll need to find out which wires go to which heater. A good bet is that they are paired at the connector, but just to be sure, use a multimeter and measure the resistance across the pairs - Id guess it'll be a reading below two ohms. What resistance do you measure across them? If the current drawn isn't too much for the rumba, you can tie the + pair and - pair together.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T18:58:55Z

this is solidoodle workbench. i really don't know as i wanted to check and the bottom pad is protected with another alimunium plate, which make too hard to check

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T18:31:21Z

Is there two heat pads on that printer?

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T18:12:35Z

both black and red wires are already plugged to the solidoodle machine, no worries about that part.
also i understood how to put the black wires into rumba, no issues.
my big issue now is with the hbout, it only has 2 plugs and the red wire coming out of solidoodle is 4 red wires.
how could this fit into rumba ??
excuse me for 0 electronics knowledge.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T17:39:49Z

Put the two red wires coming from your bed on HBOUT. one on HBOUT+ and one on HBOUT- the two back wires go to the thermistor and plug into the heated bed temperature input.

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T17:24:17Z

so how to make this i'm totally lost

Re: Com Port 3

2015-04-11T16:51:14Z

I haven't been following but would say no.