E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press (Page 3 of 21)

oh nice! i didnt think of amazon, McMaster is in NJ and im in NY, one day shipping, so i usually get all i can from there.  12x24 sheet of the .005 stuff from them is $24.  Was the washer for spacing required? by that i mean like is the washer there so that the PEI doesnt rest directly on the heating element? I havent gotten my printer yet so i cant visualize whats going on there.  Reason i ask is if its not required, ill just go with the .010 stuff from Mcmaster and have damn near the exact overall height as you did using a 1mm washer and .06 thickness PEI.

ok.  so then i should just go with what you have done and proven to work....versus attempting to order something different and hope it works, lol.  thanks again. much appreciated.

PEI > Everything (In my opinion)

I'll print them off tomorrow and test fit everything.

Is PEI easily cuttable?

Also, from what I've read elsewhere, he's right, PEI > everything else

Please forgive a complete 3D printing noob but what is the advantage of the PEI?  I'm having pretty good results with the stock glass platform.  The reviews for that PEI on Amazon say that it has great adhesion but you have to wait for it to cool completely then the print pops right off.  So does that mean you HAVE to wait for it to cool?  Right now I just pop my prints off the glass and maybe touch up the print surface with a purple glue stick and I'm ready to print again without cooling anything.  Or do you guys use multiple PEI sheets and swap them out?

Also (and again forgive the noobiness), I'm sure the Bowden style extruder works great or you all wouldn't be using it, but man that looks odd to me.  By pushing the filament so far don't you ever have kinking/bending issues?  Or is the inner diameter of the Teflon tubing exactly what it needs to be to guide the filament and there's no internal slop to allow it to buckle?

I've got an EE background so the electrical aspects of this hobby don't vex me, but I'm still coming up to speed on the mechanical/material nuances.

Im interested in WHY it works.  Cant particularly argue with the results I have seen from you guys, but the curious scientist in me is wondering ha ha!

The filament holder is easily removable, leaving just the thin upper lid, if that provides enough enclosure for you.   Without the spool holder being so close to the printhead, routing the cable bundle is much less of a problem.  I also didn't have overheating issues with just the upper lid in place

Here are some shots mid way thru.
Model

SD2

Press

Both (SD2 Left - Press Right)

So......Except for the additional parts you need to print, what needs to be purchased for the Bowden Setup and what would need to be purchased for the Non Bowden setup to get one up and running?

Many Thanks

I use a rubber band and zip tie to keep the cable up with the lid closed. SD support suggested the zip tie, and said they're working on an stl of a clip for people to print.

I've been able to print with the lid closed since I dropped to 220c for the extruder. Although, it's a bit chilly here right now, so that may help.

Wow! It moves quick! Were you able to change the acceleration settings in whatever software you are running it in? If not, how is that done?

Thanks, I will hang fire for now, although I may get the E3d-v6 while I'm still in the US as I will be leaving to go back home in April.  The rest of the stuff is easy enough to get in the UK.