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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press
I can't wait to see how this turns out! I would love to have an E3D on my Press, but it is my first printer so I didn't really want to go off making changes to it, especially since I kind of need it running at the moment.
Thanks MacGyverX for all the hard work! And Elmoret!
Edit: What heater/thermistor are you using?
Thanks to elmoret for making this possible.
Thanks to you for doing the legwork! Any chance you could write it up on E3D's wiki once you're finished?
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Main_Page
As an aside, how do you like the E3Dv6?
Nor can I. I would had it working but there was a mishap with FedEx so I missed a package with the final parts needed to get it up and running tonight.
I am using the 24V / 25W E3D provided heater and thermistor.
I added a 'shoe' to the extruder mount so it would mount sideways.
The PTFE Tube going to the extruder is too long. I wanted to wait till I had everything mounted and jog the hotend around to make sure the length is good before cutting it down to size.
Tomorrow (well later today) I'll get a test print done.
Elmoret, Of course. I've kept a build log of everything I've done. I've already started parking stuff on github. Just want to wait to get the bugs out (design & firmware) before pushing the 'commit' button.
As for the hotend. I love it. Holy crap it gets to temps fast. Ambient to 220C in the press was about <2 mins. I love the looks of it and it's well built. I am totally going to order another one for the SD2.
Quick video of a test print. > https://www.dropbox.com/s/kaqnyaxexyar3 … T.MOV?dl=0
So the mods done so far.
E3D v6
New mounting bracket for the hotend.
New location for the extruder stepper and bowden setup.
Software changes to support the E3D and adjusted motion control & acceleration (due to the reduced mass of the extruder gantry)
Added a filament cooler.
Connected a ring of RGB LEDs in place of the green halo under the power button.
Replaced glass for a sheet of PEI cut to size to match the existing bed media. (PEI is the bomb)
After I get the kinks out (extrusion multiplier mostly) I'll post better videos of it in action.
I know you used the 25W but I can confirm the 24V / 40W E3D heater will run in the Press.
On the stock PSU maybe? The stock PSU is 24V @ 7.5A which is 180W. The bed is 24V/90W. Which leaves you with 90W (theoretically) left between the hotend and the steppers. I thought about getting the 40W. But decided to see what I can do with the stock PSU. When I upgrade the PSU, I'll get the 40 Watter. SD are not known for stellar PSU's. I didn't want to risk it.
Stock Press settings, My SD2 Profile and Press specific Profile.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t8c6nnvismktd … T.MOV?dl=0
I'm running the 40W now on the stock PSU with no noticeable problems.
There is no real advantage to the 40w heater, as even the 25w heater will get to 300C.
The only advantage I can think of is heat up time, but even then you're limited by the bed.
Cool. How did you mount it?
He's only using the heater, stock press hotend.
Cool. How did you mount it?
Stock hotend. I just want people to be aware if they order one the stock PSU will handle the 40w.
I will do an e3d at some point on the press but it won't be anytime soon.
Ah.
Can someone do a non-bowden mount for the press? This design is great but sacrifices the spool holder.
Working on that as we speak. The goal was to do both.
Nice. Are you reusing the Press tensioner or building a new one?
I was not planning on it. But I could I guess. That bearing in the stock on is freaking tiny. I was planing on using the 608ZZ.
Can someone do a non-bowden mount for the press? This design is great but sacrifices the spool holder.
The spool holder is mostly worthless to me since the only spool that fits is the one from Solidoodle, that and the fact that I have to print with the lid up.
Are you guys able to print with the lid closed? I encountered excessive heat build up issues, and filament warping/snapping issues whenever I attempted to print with the lid closed. I would imagine the heat issues will only become worse as we move into summer and the ambient temperatures go up. Does the bowden setup with the lid closed add any addition stresses to the filament?
I was considering relocating the button on the outer lid and removing both lids entirely to make a filament holder gantry over the top that can hold spools of any size.
I would like to print with the lid closed if possible because I need an enclosed printer to pull off the prints this is going to be used for. I'm still need to work on a more permanent solution for the wire bundle issue when the lid is closed though.
I was just going to rewind a different filament on the SD spool at some point.
Working on that as we speak. The goal was to do both.
I would like to print with the lid closed if possible because I need an enclosed printer to pull off the prints this is going to be used for. I'm still need to work on a more permanent solution for the wire bundle issue when the lid is closed though...
I've looked at this and the only solution I can see is to run a ribbon cable under the print head, attached to the under side of the left Y carriage. This would need a tensioner on the underside of the right Y carriage to pull the cable taut and stop it interfering with the printed part.
I guess you could have some sort of swing arm arrangement, but there isn't really enough room for this and you will have to replace the cables anyway.
Anyone got better ideas?
So the mods done so far.
Replaced glass for a sheet of PEI cut to size to match the existing bed media. (PEI is the bomb)
what thickness PEI do you use? After reading up about this stuff Im going to pull the trigger on a sheet from either Amazon or McMaster. Thanks!
edit: and the exact size of the bed, so i can order this stuff prior to getting my Press next week.
Non-Bowden Version (Very WIP). Measuring up the probe now to extend it.
jonzerb. I got 0.6" and used 1mm spacers to move up the aluminium plate up. If you can find 0.7" That will fit without the mod.
McMasterr has .003, .005 and .010, darn. Did you have to use multiple washers to get the height you needed? If so perhaps .005 will work.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → E3Dv6 on Solidoodle Press
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