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Topic: Printing without a raft

I'm pretty new to the 3D printer scene but I think I know the basics so far. I've had good luck printing with a raft, but when I try to print without one, the plastic that gets extruded first won't stick to the bed very well and a couple cm's of filament gets displaced. I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on how to approach this. Thanks.

2 (edited by ErroneousBosch 2012-12-30 04:30:54)

Re: Printing without a raft

Are you printing on Kapton?

I print on glass, and I know that if stuff starts to not stick, it is time to apply another layer of PVA. People with Kapton have had some luck with cheap hairspray, i know, but a 4 or 5 to 1 dilution of PVA applied to a hot bed is hella cheap.

Also, if you have a heated bed, make sure you let it heat up enough. I don't hit print until it says at least 90.

Edit: also make sure your nozzle is clean. not just the inside, but the outside. Old buildup will pull your print right off the platform.

3 (edited by cmetzel 2012-12-30 05:34:26)

Re: Printing without a raft

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/solidoodle-1

95 deg bed, hairspray, and keep the case on or tape cardboard over the openings for a cheap fix.  That should work in most situations.  It's important to have the right z height set on your bed and have a level bed as well.  Solidoodle has videos for both on their wiki page link above.

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Re: Printing without a raft

Like EB, I print on glass, but mine is mirror so I can actually see the underside of the print head... makes things nice.  I don't use PVA, I use hairspray... a nice cheap travel size of Tresseme.  Every 3-4 prints I clean the glass with hand sanitizing gel (it's alcohol), then run a spray to coat the surface.  Doesn't take much.

Also, if you go the glass route, get several plates.  This will allow you to swap plates after a print to get a fresh plate in the machine.  Just another couple of minutes to heat the new plate and your're ready to print.  The removed plate can cool on an old towel and for me, the pieces literally fall off the glass when they're cool enough.

if it's not sticking to the kapton, check your bed temp.  It should be around 90 or 100.  That will make it stick as I know it did when I started.

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Re: Printing without a raft

I'd have to agree about the glass as well. I just got the cheapest bottle of extra hold hairspray at the corner store and it works great. The great thing about the hairspray is that when it's hot the parts stick really well, but when it cools they come off like they were never attached in the first place.

After making sure your bed is level and everything is calibrated, glass will make things much better. Maybe even before leveling since the heated beds aren't always flat.

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Re: Printing without a raft

Thanks, so far I have been printing on Kapton with the bed set at about 95. I think I'll try the hairspray route and make sure the bed's leveled correctly. I haven't seen the videos yet on how to do it, but I think I'll go take a look.

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Re: Printing without a raft

I had great luck with the original Solidoodle Kapton, until I discovered that the bed was warped.  I would start out trying just clean Kapton with a leveled bed at the right height.  I now use glass and hairspray, in an attempt to avoid the bed warp.

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Re: Printing without a raft

jon_bondy wrote:

I had great luck with the original Solidoodle Kapton, until I discovered that the bed was warped.  I would start out trying just clean Kapton with a leveled bed at the right height.  I now use glass and hairspray, in an attempt to avoid the bed warp.

yes this seem to work for me too