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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → solidoodle 3 power supply options?
Im looking to get a new power supply for my SD3 that is not from the company itself so i was wondering what i should get since the one from the company had too many problems and melted. plus they charge WAY too much! i was told that i should get a 12v 30 amp power supply and did find one on amazon for $25. Is there better options or should i just go with that one?
How's about a link to the one your considering and I can tell you everything you need to know about it.
Here is the one that I was referred to when asking the same question. It has done its job so far. (It's $25.89, so it might be the one tyler was referring to)
Here is the one that I was referred to when asking the same question. It has done its job so far. (It's $25.89, so it might be the one tyler was referring to)
If it is I have been running that exact same one on one of my SD3's with absolutely no issues. Just remember to connect all three banks together to get the rated 360 watts out of it.
Something like this
yes that is the exact one! and i think ill order it since i have amazon prime! thanks guys! btw does anyone know about how much it costs to build an acrylic enclosure? just an estimate
yes that is the exact one! and i think ill order it since i have amazon prime! thanks guys! btw does anyone know about how much it costs to build an acrylic enclosure? just an estimate
$20-$30 depending on how nice you want it and how much your local hardware store sells it for.
alright sounds good, ill try making it as high end as i can, and i just ordered the power supply, do you think you could possibly send me a picture of all the wiring on it because I'm not 100% sure how to hook it up, I'm a noob at that sort of stuff.
I didn't realize that the 3 lanes needed to be connected. Would it still be safe/possible to tie in another 12V line for cooling fans? I made a 16AWG to 4 JST connector wire that would help power the fans on the board and the e3d fan, but I don't want to cause any issues with the power supply.
In the picture above what your looking at is the 12 volt side of the wiring. Red is positive and black is negative and everything is labeled on the PSU. There are 3 of each positive and negative so you'll want to jumper the positives together and the negatives together. From there if you have the Printerboard with a barrel connector you'll need to determine which is positive (inside of barrel) and which is negative (outside of barrel) and connect to the PSU. The part you can't see is the AC side of the PSU and that is pretty straight forward. Get a good cord with a ground post (three prong plug) and it should have three wires Green (ground), White (neutral), and Black (Line or Hot). On the PSU there are three posts and they are labeled N (neutral),
L (line) and Ground or the symbol for ground. Once you get it in hand if you have questions just ask.
okay sweet that helps a lot! thanks! ill let you know if i run into any snags 
okay sweet that helps a lot! thanks! ill let you know if i run into any snags
No problem, I'm sure you'll figure it out.
so i have run into a little problem, i took the cord with the ground post from the stock solidoodle 3 power supply and it doesn't have green, white, and black. instead it has green, blue, and red? how do i hook that up to the AC side?
and the cord plugging directly into the printer has red and black at the end hooked on the printer but on the other end has blue and a reddish brown
Ok, I think this will be easy to help you with, but in favour of getting this correct first time, please upload some pictures of what you're looking at. I don't really want to give advice on mains wiring otherwise... 
Take a photo of both cables, each photo showing both ends.
"Cord with the ground post" - do you mean the mains power cord (plugs into the household wall socket)?
"Cord plugging directly into the printer" - do you mean the 12V cable from the power supply to the printer?
Boz wrote:Here is the one that I was referred to when asking the same question. It has done its job so far. (It's $25.89, so it might be the one tyler was referring to)
If it is I have been running that exact same one on one of my SD3's with absolutely no issues. Just remember to connect all three banks together to get the rated 360 watts out of it.
Something like this
I got this same PS to power my PCB Heated Bed which I will control with an SSR...
Q - When I powered up the PS with nothing else connected, I took a Voltmeter reading across 1 each of the 12V+ and 12V- terminals, and I got a reading which jumped from 6 to 146V back and forth...is this normal?
No that is not normal make sure your meter is set correctly. 20 v DC for example then black lead on the negative and red on the positive.
Tried another meter and it worked fine - 12.4V...must have been something with my fancy autoranging version I tried earlier...
Thanks!
Hey guys,
I'm looking into doing this upgrade for my new E3D V6 hotend that I got in the christmas giveaway (thanks to IronMan ^^^ 
) and I'm wondering what everyone does in terms of protection from the exposed 240V wires. Wouldn't the shock that you would get from touching those screws be fatal? Surely you cant leave it exposed like that. I can see that in wardjr's picture there is a plastic part that falls over the terminals but not all of them have that.
So what do you do?
Wire it just like in the picture...the amber plastic cover flips down and does a pretty good job of covering the terminals.
BTW, at least on mine, the voltage is 12, not 240 ...but the amperage can still shock you!
Enjoy the E3D!...Happy New Year!
Oh. It was my understanding that the output terminals of the power supply were 12V, but you still have the three wires coming from the cord that you plug into your wall socket that you have to screw in as the input, and these are 240V, straight from the wall socket.
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Matt
Sorry, I thought you were talking about the output side of things. Yes, the 240V input terminals are exposed, but just make the connections neat with no frayed wires (you can tin them up with solder if desired); then you can run some electrical tape over them to cover them up if need be.
Output terminals are 12v and the input are 120-240 volt so don't touch them 
The cover actually protects rather well and if you mount it to the back of your printer than those become rather difficult to reach. If you orient the PSU so the connections are down towards the bottom you'd have to work to get your finger in there.
What part of the world are you in with 240v?
Thanks for all your help. I'll layer it up with electrical tape when I'm done just to be sure. Wardjr, I'm living in Australia, just like lawsy
Thanks for all your help. I'll layer it up with electrical tape when I'm done just to be sure. Wardjr, I'm living in Australia, just like lawsy
Oh! Cheers Mate!
Wow, I've been using a 30A power supply without jumpers for the 2 V+ and 2 V- s for a while now. Does that mean I've only been providing 15A max for my printer?
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