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Topic: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

I'm not sure how long it used to take, but It's 20 minutes now to heat the bed, with 4mm glass (I think), and original kapton tape on the aluminum.  That couldactually speed it up, in my mind, since the temperature sensor is under the glass anyway, and glass insulates.

Sides of my printer have cardboard, top is open, room is room temp, heater is stock.

Is 20 min a normal time to heat the bed?

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

When I first got my SD2 it took about 4-5 minutes to reach temp. I installed an E3D (highly recommended) which draws more power but the stock PSU kept up with it for some time. But then it took longer and longer (around 15 minutes), then the bed didn't want to stay at temperature and anytime the bed went over 50c, the LED strip would flicker.

I just upgraded my power supply and it works far better. You can check out Amazon for upgraded PSUs...got mine for $25.

But before you go and spent money, check all your wires and points of contact.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

It is for mine.  Mine actually reaches 95C in about 10 mins, but I let it sit for 10 to actually soak in the heat.  After that I can print as long as I need to.

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Hmmm mine reaches 110 in about 1 minute. wink most likely a PSU issue.  When I had the stock heater it took about 15-20 minutes and as it got older the time increased.  That's what inspired the upgrade.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

I have the stock heater... and it seems to be running swimmingly.  I would guess that I got a fairly decent buildout wink

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

wardjr wrote:

Hmmm mine reaches 110 in about 1 minute. wink most likely a PSU issue.  When I had the stock heater it took about 15-20 minutes and as it got older the time increased.  That's what inspired the upgrade.


Yeah yeah... rub it in wink

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

ronsii wrote:
wardjr wrote:

Hmmm mine reaches 110 in about 1 minute. wink most likely a PSU issue.  When I had the stock heater it took about 15-20 minutes and as it got older the time increased.  That's what inspired the upgrade.


Yeah yeah... rub it in wink

I can say this... It is so nice being able to print almost immediately.  I really appreciate all of my other mods but the AC heat bed is a must for someone with no patience like myself. smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

I might do something similar to your 500 watt mod one of these days... but like with most of the hobbies/jobs I have I end up so busy and short of time that any mods only get done if I get forced into it(something breaks).

So have you tried the super bed heater out on other stuff ??? like cooking lunch, dinner....

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Very funny, I did just move the printer to my office.  Now I can use it as a coffee warmer wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Jokes aside, how do I replace the power supply?  I have done mods like replacing xy-carriages, glass bed, Mk4 extruder, but nothing on the electronics.

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Do you have another PSU?  You'll need a way to connect wires to the printer board (adapter for barrel connector).  As most replacement PSU's will have screw terminals.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

wardjr wrote:

Do you have another PSU?  You'll need a way to connect wires to the printer board (adapter for barrel connector).  As most replacement PSU's will have screw terminals.

This is a fairly common mod, right?  Is there a guide?  Does PSU = Power Supply?

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

PSU = power supply.
It is very common for users to switch as the stock unit is just garbage and undersized for the job.  There are many PSU options to choose from and plenty of people to help if you have questions.  AZERATE just upgraded his so maybe he will chime in with a list of other things he needed to get.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Just my 2 cents, but I place a thick oven mitt on my platform to get it heated up faster. I know its not elegant, but it gets my scrappy little SD2 up to temp in about ten minutes.

Also; now I'm worried about my PSU dying out! I didn't even know that was a thing....

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

machinistjoe wrote:

Just my 2 cents, but I place a thick oven mitt on my platform to get it heated up faster. I know its not elegant, but it gets my scrappy little SD2 up to temp in about ten minutes.

Also; now I'm worried about my PSU dying out! I didn't even know that was a thing....

It is definitely a thing just do a search for PSU upgrades.  An SD in stock form should be alright but the added load of an E3D puts it over the top.  Some of the the PSU's from SD were junk right out of the box.  I know mine was I had to solder the power cord back on with in the first 30 minutes.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: 20 minutes to heat the bed SD2 glass

Make an enclosure for it. I know you said you're using cardboard, but do yourself a favor and get some plexiglass, some super glue, weather stripping, and some magnets. I'm sure you can figure out where I'm going with this. That way you have a see-through, durable, and easily removed outer covering. Having a top is important since heat rises and comes right out. Without the top I made on my SD3, it takes a really long time to heat up.