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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Automatic removal from build platform
I almost hate to do this to you guys, but take a look at this video below, and more specifically about the 1:22 mark where the part gets automatically ejected from the print bed. It appears they made some contraption that has a roll of thin plastic film that rolls along over the bed. At the front edge of the bed the film drops out under a roller and the part peels off into a bin.
Please post the STLs when you're done. haha
It's a heated conveyor belt. You know all the trouble we have with bed level, warped aluminum and Z offset? Imagine trying to work all that out on a moveable belt, which explains why Makerbot gave up on it. You should come up with something that will swap out glass plates like a record player. Maybe hold the plates on with magnets that get retracted with servos to release them. Call it the Factordoodle and sell it be tech to Solidoodle to use in heir bot farm.
I really hope that vending machine isn't locked. What happens when you come back for your print and its a big ball if spaghetti?
They're college students, they do it right the first time because they know everything now.
It looks like a plastic film stretched over a glass plate to me. If the film is consistently thick and tight against the plate it should work like a charm.
It looks like the automated build platform from makerbot.
since i cant post links for whatever reason you have to google it sorry
This almost might sound too dumb and dangerous to try, not to mention slow, but if you use a glass bed, the parts detach when the temp cools down enough. If the part is small enough, why not write some g code to let the bed cool down, home the y axis, centre the x axis, home the z axis then push the part off the front? You might need a bit of a cattle catcher device to make it move in the right direction though.
I don't think you want to exert that much torque/resistance on the printhead or Y axis belt.
Maybe if it was screw driven...
If you need to maximize your print time between attentions, do multiple parts.
I do that with many of the little clips, clamps, and standoffs I have been working on, and I've had great results with smaller parts. I did 36 units of a small part(3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2", connecting them all like in plastic model kits - i think that helps to control the print direction, making for faster print and stronger parts
This almost might sound too dumb and dangerous to try, not to mention slow, but if you use a glass bed, the parts detach when the temp cools down enough. If the part is small enough, why not write some g code to let the bed cool down, home the y axis, centre the x axis, home the z axis then push the part off the front? You might need a bit of a cattle catcher device to make it move in the right direction though.
This works fine as long as you let the bed cool down to room temp, at least on my setup. I print remotely sometimes, and have a webcam set up to watch the print. I've pushed prints off the bed, no problem.
This works fine as long as you let the bed cool down to room temp, at least on my setup. I print remotely sometimes, and have a webcam set up to watch the print. I've pushed prints off the bed, no problem.
This has been my experience with a glass bed too. I printed a spool, one half was on the kapton tape - i am fairly certain I could lift the printer by the print job it was stuck on that well, and the other was on the glass, which I left to cool completely - i literally just picked it up off the bed with no resistance at all.
I've found that large prints on copper release with almost no force once they cool to room temperature. However, small prints do stick even at room temperature. The hairspray is not enough to keep large prints from becoming warped when printing on copper... they will partially unstick, even at 100C. Small prints do not have this problem. It could also be related to my top and bottom fill settings. Or maybe my hairspray coating was not good enough or something.
So far, it sound like glass is the best print surface, especially for easy removal.
@pretenda & others with a glass bed,
How do small objects release at low temperature? Do large objects come partially unstuck (say, one corner) at high temp?
All objects I've printed release easily when the plate cools. The only prints I've had sticking issues with are very large completely filled bottoms. Even most of those stick well when the print area is enclosed. If I have troubles, I put a couple of holes in the bottom or do the flip over for the kapton side. I haven't used PLA, but the glass has been night and day with its effectiveness.
cephdon,
I've not had any major issues with prints coming unstuck from the glass bed. The one time a large part did come unstuck was when I had turned a fan on to try and reduce smooshing on some of the smaller layers at the end of the print, and it cooled the bed down enough for it to come off. That was my own (impatient) fault though.
Small parts come off just as easily as large parts once it is roughly room temperature.
Despite my initial misgivings for using glass... it seems clearly superior to copper sheet.
Do you use hairspray on it or does it "just work"?
I tried it without hairspray at first, it stuck briefly then pulled up half way through the first layer. I tried it with different z heights about 3 or 4 times. I gave up and walked over the road and grabbed a $2 can of no name hair spray - best thing I have ever done with my printer. It sticks every time, is level, leaves a much nicer pattern on the bottom of the print than kapton, and pops straight off the board (so much so that I think pushing the print off with the head could really work)
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Automatic removal from build platform
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