FilaWinder Documentation (Page 12 of 16)

Ah - then a relay would work fine, in that case.

Things are going good. I took another look at the pot, while testing I noticed something my R/C reflexes really should have caught....

The connector was wired improperly! The white wire should be in the middle, it and the black were swapped. So it makes sense that I would get brown-outs when turning the pot too far one way, the resistance gets as low as 7 ohm that way, so 5/7=0.71A ... facepalm

Swapped the wires at the connector, the issue went away as expected. Just figured I'd post it as a troubleshooting tip in case someone else has a similar issue.

Anyone know what's up with my Sestos PID? It seems like it gets to the target temp (65 for PCL) but when it turns on the heat it also reboots itself.

I've gone through and set all the settings to default as were in the handout it came with, but it won't autotune because it keeps rebooting, and the extruder pauses extruding when it reboots resulting in thinner filament for that moment.

I've also gone and triple checked my wiring. It's weird because this isn't happening on my older filastruder, which works just fine.

I am getting ready to start building my unit but I noticed that the machining of the pipe left quite a few burs, see below.  Should I clean this up with a file before assembly?  Do I need be carefull not to round any of the endeges?  Or should I assumble like this and let the screw clean this up?

If I file I was planning to blow the pipe out with my air gun before assembly. 

Also you mention to use oil of grease on the thrust bearing.  I have some white lithium grease will this work or should I use a oil based grease.

Thanks for the help?

Bill

Thanks for the info.

I am going to deburr to reduce the amount of chips that end up going through the extruder when I run the purge after assembly,

All Filastruder Kits have melt filter nozzles included now.

1.) Yes.
2.) No, not a problem. Anything within 45 degrees is OK.
3.) Yes, that's correct. There is no need for a groove since the force drives the snap ring into the nozzle, not out of the nozzle.
4.) By hand or maybe an extra 1/8" turn with a wrench. Overdoing it will make it very difficult to remove the nozzle later.

I assembled my Filastruder and it runs but I have not extruded with it yet.

I am about to start my Filawinder and I noticed that the wire in the parts list said two bags of wire and in the picture one is red and one is yellow.  I did not receive any bags of wire but in the bag with the laser and switches there are a number of black, red and white wire.  Some are terminated in DuPont connectors.  Is that all the wire I need or am I missing some wire?

Thanks!

Thanks for the info on the wire.  I started working on the winder.  I discovered most of my boards were cut without any masking.  See photo.  You can even see where some were 1/2 masked.  I am trying to clean off the soot with Acetone but it is turning into a major project.  Would it be possible to get another set of boards that were masked before they were cut?  They actually look better in the picture then they do in real life.

In the picture two of the parts were masked, the one on the left and the one in the middle on the top.  The one in the middle right was half masked.  All the other had no masking.    As you can see they are much cleaner.  The parts actually look much better in the picture then they actually are.  In addition to the soot there are burn marks that will not come off with the acetone.  They are more orange/brown then the black of the soot.  There are also spots were the white has flaked off.

I built the Filistruder which all the parts were masked as well the parts here that were masked all look much better then the ones that were not masked. They only need a small amount of cleaning.  The ones that were not masked require a lot of cleaning and even then I cannot get the burn marks off.  It will take quite a while to clean these and the result will still be not as good as the masked parts are just by removing the masking.   

If you just send me parts that are masked then you should not have to cherry pick unless most of the parts were not masked when they were cut.

I don't mean to be overly picky but for the amount of work to clean these I will just use them the way they are if I cannot get ones that were masked when they were cut.

I have finished assembling the Filawinder and I tried to calibrate things using the operating instructions.  I set the Auto Switch to on and position the guide to the center (straight up) and turn the power on.  Pressing the buttons and adjusting the pot has no effect.  What happens when I power on is the guide starts rotating to the left and comes back partially and then rotates to the left again.  This continues until the guide makes contact with the board on the left side at which point it moves to the right slightly then moves to the left contacting the board again.  This just keeps happening.   I have tried powering up with the buttons pressed and not pressed.  Pressing the buttons and turning the pot has no effect.  I have measured the resistance of the pot and it measures 0 to 10.1 k ohms between the center and the other two leads.  With the knob all the way one lead reads 10.1 and the other zero.  Turning all the way the other way and the 10.1 goes to zero and the 0 lead goes to 10.1.   I have also checked the three push buttons and the two switches with my meter and they all work properly.    The laser does come on and I adjusted it so it hits the sensors.  Also the motor does not turn at all.

Two times when I powered up the sensor moved to the 2:00 position but many other times it just starts wherever I position it.

What should I do?