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Topic: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

I've noticed a steady deterioration of my print quality as of late.  Here are pictures of the most recent, and most severe case of this.  I mainly wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts about whether or not this was a clogged nozzle issue or not.  I have a feeling that it's time to get an E3D hotend, but I wanted to see if there were any other possible avenues before doing something like that.

I appreciate any help that anyone can offer me.  Thank you all.

Layer adhesion is pitiful, and the infill looks terrible most of the time.  I have more pictures if needed, but it just seems to be a mess all over.  I've been able to get some stellar prints from my machine, especially after adding a passively heated build chamber (that so far reaches around 105°F), but lately it has gone to junk with any color I throw at it.

http://i.imgur.com/QSKcoDF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/s2Y4ldb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yhpLke3.jpg

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

Could be a partial clog, but I'm also wondering about extruder temp.  Any chance the thermistor position changed?  Perhaps resulting in hotter prints?

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

Or if you are throwing in different filament, have you measured the filament to see if it is really the same diameter? Might need to change your filament settings in the slicer.

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

3d-oodler wrote:

Could be a partial clog, but I'm also wondering about extruder temp.  Any chance the thermistor position changed?  Perhaps resulting in hotter prints?

Claghorn wrote:

Or if you are throwing in different filament, have you measured the filament to see if it is really the same diameter? Might need to change your filament settings in the slicer.

I definitely suspected both of these as the culprit.  After installing a new extruder body, I can see how the thermistor changing position could be a problem.  I managed to overtighten and break my wooden piece on the old extruder, so I don't think it's too crazy to think that I messed up the placement.

The only other thing that says clog to me is the fact that my hotend can no longer operate at the low temperatures that it used to be able to handle (200°C).  If I just warm the bed up and hit the start button, the extruder will not warm up enough (even at the default 200°C) and will jam until it has had adequate time to warm up.  I've been bypassing this by preheating the hotend to around 205°C for a minute or so, and then running at around 205-210°C.  Running at 200°C is possible once the hotend has had time to heat up for a while, but it sounds like it causes unnecessary strain on the motor.  This could all be a byproduct of bad thermistor placement, but it also hints at a partial clog.

I will try to look at the placement this afternoon to check, and I will also try to run a single wall calibration print at my typical settings to see if it is still in spec.  I have previously calibrated the sizes and multipliers for each of my filaments, but it might have changed since I've gotten further into each roll.  The only reason I suspect this less is because I have attempted this with different colors and had similar results across the board.

5 (edited by TickTock 2014-11-16 13:28:00)

Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

Any resolution to your problem?  Was it a clogged nozzle?  My SD4 just started experiencing the same thing but it happened suddenly (mid-print).  The first cm in the image printed OK, but then things fell apart.  I've tried adjusting the temperature, feed rate, and different filament so I suspect a clog...

http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6773

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6 (edited by Boz 2014-11-16 15:54:23)

Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

TickTock,

It was a pretty severe clog.  Burnt plastic had made its way out of the nozzle through the threaded areas.  My extruder was pretty much junk, so I got an E3D v5.  You could try using acetone on your brass nozzle to break up any clogs.  Just soak the nozzle in some acetone for a while, and then use a small needle/paperclip to get the gunk out of it.

I've attached a picture of what the clog looked like on mine.  It was pretty far gone at that point.

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

Oh wow.  Yeah - that looks pretty bad.  Nothing like that on mine.  Thanks for the followup.  I took mine apart and am soaking now.  I first drilled out most of the ABS with a 1/8" drill to help the acetone penetrate (just the the threaded rod - not the nozzle :-)).  Crossing my fingers...

8 (edited by jagowilson 2014-11-17 02:02:19)

Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

Sounds like everyone in this thread needs to get an e3d. What's a clog? wink

Boz, that is CRAZY. I cannot believe how much plasfic that is. Good lord.


Edit: why was such an old thread revived? Weird

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

ABS or PLA? sounds like ABS temps if ABS is used with this result its needing flow calibrated. if PLA at that temp its trying to burn/clog some maybe

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

I found the old thread because I was searching using Google image search to find someone with similar symptoms.  After cleaning out the nozzle everything seems to be back to normal.  Until this happened, my SD4 had been working phenomenally.  No well nut; no E3D.  What is it about the E3D that would make it less susceptible to clogs?  All I can think of is the enclosed filament delivery system (very hard for foreign material to fall inside).

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Re: Advice on Possible Nozzle Clog

It's all metal design and active cooling make for a very short transition area.  So the only melted plastic is what's coming out the nozzle. It has a bigger heat cartridge and better placement of the thermistor for more accurate temp readings.  Because it is all metal you can run much higher temps and that allows the use of different filaments like Nylon.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
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Thanks to all for your contributions