Glass should be parallel. Ceramic tile, not so much.
I think my personal opinion makes me biased. For starters, I have kept my mirror clipped on since I first installed it. As soon as a print finishes, I use a razor blade to pop it off easily, and then run another print. Ian mentioned once before, more print jobs leave the bed in good stick condition. Every once in awhile, I scrape the mirror clean (I save on acetone) and give it a spray. So my personal preference leads me to want a stable bed base.
But other people like swapping their glass. So for them, level could end up going out if the glass is different in any way.
This auto-leveling keeps growing on me. Especially with the Solidoodle.
So imagine this: a small metal ball maybe 1/3 inch diameter housed in a tube that lets the bottom hemisphere open. The ball would be just below a plunger type snap switch. This is then mounted onto the underneath of the SD carriage. The idea here is that the ball would be just below the tip of the nozzle. It would trigger the auto-level program, but then during a print, the ball would just 'roll' over any collisions with the print (remember, it is just sitting there like a mouse ball being held in the air). The only force down would be gravity and the switches light actuation spring force. Now there would be no need for a solenoid or servo.
Think about a specifically printed version of this:
http://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-R … ler+switch
Or you could get this http://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Inductiv … ity+switch and glue some thin metal sheets just under the glass at the probe points. Contactless probe.
Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
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