Re: Heated build chamber
So 70C is where ABS no longer shrinks/warps? I thought it was higher then that for some reason..
Re: Heated build chamber
ITman496 wrote:
So 70C is where ABS no longer shrinks/warps? I thought it was higher then that for some reason..
90C is the transition line, but is gets quite soft from 80c-90c. At 70c is does try to warp, but very quickly the stresses in the material creep and fade. This I believe is why 70C is a great temp point. Any higher and parts are stiff enough while printing, and lower it doesn't fade stresses quickly enough.
Re: Heated build chamber
have you thought about those ceramic heater/cooler units? i forget what they are called, but you could put them on the steppers to keep them cool, and use a fan to circulate the heat from the other side, might need a temp controlled vent fan in that case since you don't want to be cycling the cooling of the stepper, could cause consistency problems.
Re: Heated build chamber
mm2tts wrote:
Our SD is enclosed with a cardboard box and heated via a personal space heater pointed through a hole in the side of the box. Interior temp hits 50C (this is read via the temp reading from the extruder before the extruder is heated). We also use a glass bed and hairspray. No lifting from the bed.
Does this work well for you? With out a simple box. I get cracking in my prints that are over 4 hrs.
- wingless
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Re: Heated build chamber
The interior chamber heater is great for start-up, but offers little benefit once printing has started.
The extrusion nozzle and the bed heater dump lots of heat into the enclosure, reducing the amount of additional chamber heat to zero, when the printer is running.
- techbuilder2175
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Re: Heated build chamber
wingless wrote:
The interior chamber heater is great for start-up, but offers little benefit once printing has started.
The extrusion nozzle and the bed heater dump lots of heat into the enclosure, reducing the amount of additional chamber heat to zero, when the printer is running.
Not necessarily true
keeping the enclosure heated to a minimum of 55°C provides greater layer adhesion.
My printer is fully enclosed and has insulation and I was able to only achieve an ambient temperature of
37°C with the heated bed and the extruder.
My prints were much more reliable and stronger when printed at 55°C
Powder coated steel enclosure, 1/4" Surface grounded hardened aluminum plate, MK2A Heat bed, .200 Polished fused quartz plate, Machined quick change hot bed mount, E3D hot end, Ramps 1.4, DRV8825 stepper motor drivers
Re: Heated build chamber
Idea, what about a mylar survival blanket? It traps heat well and is real cheap.
SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.
- techbuilder2175
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Re: Heated build chamber
I'm sure that would work but really anything that you use to insulate made of fabric will insulate
far better than without.
I personally went with the stuff from home depot because it was cheap had a decent operating temperature and was easily acquired
since I live down the street from home depot.
Powder coated steel enclosure, 1/4" Surface grounded hardened aluminum plate, MK2A Heat bed, .200 Polished fused quartz plate, Machined quick change hot bed mount, E3D hot end, Ramps 1.4, DRV8825 stepper motor drivers
Re: Heated build chamber
Techbuilder - That is some nice work on the enclosure. Have you decided how to control the heat to keep it at 55C or whatever you want using. I am looking at building an enclosure for my Ord Bot and not sure how to keep it at a steady temp.
35 2014-03-25 16:33:27 (edited by ysb 2014-03-25 16:37:18)
- ysb
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Re: Heated build chamber
use this
http://www.dx.com/p/stc-1000-1-7-lcd-mi … 20v-259160
to control fans.. (thats what i use in my own heat chamber)
you can hack it to use 12v instead of 220v for the powe supply (easy hack : http://www.digitalspirit.org/blog/index … e-STC-1000 sorry, it's in french but you will understand with the photo.. there is only one component (a 220v to 12v transformer) to remove as the controller already work with only 12v)
you can found 110v version on ebay or amazon if you don't want to hack it..
this controller can control a heat source and a cool source... (i only use it to cool down when i reach the max temp of my enclosure)
- techbuilder2175
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Re: Heated build chamber
Honestly I never really needed to use any temp controls because it seems to settle at 55c and doesn't exceed so I never really felt the need to add one.
Powder coated steel enclosure, 1/4" Surface grounded hardened aluminum plate, MK2A Heat bed, .200 Polished fused quartz plate, Machined quick change hot bed mount, E3D hot end, Ramps 1.4, DRV8825 stepper motor drivers
- ysb
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Re: Heated build chamber
i discovered that the problem can appear with a 6x6x6" SD2 type printer with a updated heated bed (silicon pad with 30A power supply..)
my i3 8x8x8" with a standard heatbed (12A power supply) seem to not have problem with "overheat"