Topic: Printing Polycarbonate on the Solidoodle
So I got some Polycarbonate (PC) from 3dprintergear.com.au to really give my new E3D All-Metal Hotend a workout. Note that the temps I refer to below are using both a QU-BD Silicone+Glass Bed, and the E3D.
Right up front let me say this is not possible to do on a standard SD. Whilst PC Softens from about 240°C, you need 270-300°C to get layer adhesion and quality prints. As the PEEK barrel on the standard frontend begins to fail at 255°C, you wont get near to what you need.
But assuming you too have an E3D, then you can happily print PC I'm pleased to say. Still trying to find ideal numbers...
Its tough stuff. Removing filament ooze from a cold nozzle is difficult, and destringing prints by hand is not possible. Prints are also very flexible and spring right back into shape.
However its picky about the bed temp. I couldn't get it to stick and stay stuck on tonights glass+hairspray combo unless I went to 100°C and touched up the hairspray lots. The PC seems to lift it right off the glass when removing a print. I'll try some Kapton tomorrow.
This stuff does also ooze like nothing. Runnier than PLA at the temps you want, but it prints very solidly with a rapid cooldown to solid. As a result, expect to need a very high (higher than you've thought before) retract setting. In the video below, I'm on 3mm's, and it still stringing.
Its nice and transparent, but not see through by any means - except single layers on the bed come out crystal clear. If you have ever seen lexan roofing over a patio, then its about that transmission, but not as clear due to the layers making it a bit cloudy on the vertical walls.
Now that I've almost got it working, I'll do a nice vase or something tomorrow and post the results...
(anyone have suggestions for a good 'demo' print besides yoda or pink panther woman or boring calibration boxes?)