51

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

In your situation the difference isn't that big.  Put the money towards other upgrades first, I can think of several upgrades that should come before the Rumba.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

52 (edited by adrian 2015-04-01 17:31:13)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

P.s... Thanks Ironman for the vote of confidence.. Sorry haven't been around as much this year.. Posting to Thailand has soaked up a lot of mind space and time.. But slowly getting back involved as time permits. Missing you all and my printers (Damn sea freight)... Realise your post was in December but I've been uber busy with OS Moves and work in a foreign country...

53 (edited by hostinggeek 2015-04-01 17:55:26)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Thanks Adrian.  I'm not looking to go too nuts with modding the workbench, and chances are I'll use an ssr for the bed with a separate psu, whether I use rumba or not, so the bed circuit, while cool, might not be worth the change.  Like I said, it's laying around.  I'm not sure what I'm going to do now.  Bulldog lites come to mind, but I've never had a printed extruder give me any trouble.  There's always a boatload of led's...

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

54

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Does anyone have a configuration.h file I can download that will work with RH and Solidoodle without me having to change anything.

I have all the hardware installed, and downloaded and flashed the correct Marlin firmware as written by lawsy but the X and Y axis work in the wrong direction, and the Extruder motor moves too quickly.

Z-axis seems to be ok, as do the heaters, temp sensors, and all fans.

I'm using SD3 with 2560, RAMPS 1.4 shield, A4988 drivers, the latest RH, J-head, PCB bed heater, extruder fan, board fan.

Also are there any settings I need to change elsewhere in EEPROM or Printer Settings?

Sorry if this is a noob question, but I've trawled the various threads, and the more I read the more I'm getting confused.

Industrial Designer
Fresh Design Works (UK)
www.freshdesignworks.co.uk

55

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Use this version https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta
Open Arduino and go to file and open the downloaded folder and then open the Marlin.ino file.
Then open configuration.h  tab and in tools tab select the com port and under board select your chip.
Then scroll down through the file and choose your board number from the list.  Where it say for "SD 3 Change to 3"do that.
Then if there's anything else you want to change like max temps go ahead and do that.
Then all you need to do is click verify.  Once that is good click save.
Now hit the reset on the board and click the upload button and you should be good to go.
The only thing that needs to be changed in EEPROM will be steps per mm for the extruder.  They will be at 138 and should be closer to 105.  You should do a proper calibration to verify that number, it's all layed out in the WIKI under calibration.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

56

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

After burning 3 Solidoodle motherboards I finally did this upgrade.  Everything worked great (Thanks Adrian!), but I had no way to mount the board to the back of my SD3.  I believe the version posted here by Adrian is for the older style Solidoodle boards, not the Printrboard version which I have.  I designed my own and wanted to share it with anyone else who has the same predicament.  I posted the files here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1107463 and also attached to this post.  Hope this helps someone.

http://soliforum.com/i/?IhigFhs.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?uEbDt86.jpg

Post's attachments

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57

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

ne14pez wrote:

After burning 3 Solidoodle motherboards I finally did this upgrade.  Everything worked great (Thanks Adrian!), but I had no way to mount the board to the back of my SD3.  I believe the version posted here by Adrian is for the older style Solidoodle boards, not the Printrboard version which I have.  I designed my own and wanted to share it with anyone else who has the same predicament.  I posted the files here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1107463 and also attached to this post.  Hope this helps someone.

http://soliforum.com/i/?IhigFhs.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?uEbDt86.jpg


I am curious why you put your heatsinks on their ends? They are designed to be put with the fins up. Yes they will touch components but they wont cause shorting as long as they stay away from the pins. Just curious as they will remove more heat being put on the correct way.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

58

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

tmclean wrote:

Hello
I was wondering if anyone could help with an issue. I have flashed the Marlin Beta firmware from here ( the latest one ) to my Ramps 1.4 Sainsmart and am using a new E3d v6 extruder. When I go into Repetier an press heat extruder it only goes to about 55 then stops. If I use PID auto tune via the Gcode enter it heats up and does its thing. But still wont work with the heat extruder button. Also I noticed that the bed temp wasnt showing next to the extruder temp at the bottom.
Thank you for your time.


In Repetier there are two settings for the heating. There is one in printer settings which is called default bed temp and hotend temp. Then the other is in the slicer settings and although they should match, the slicer settings will over ride the default settings once you press print.

The default settings are for if you manually preheat..

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

59

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

carl_m1968 wrote:

I am curious why you put your heatsinks on their ends? They are designed to be put with the fins up. Yes they will touch components but they wont cause shorting as long as they stay away from the pins. Just curious as they will remove more heat being put on the correct way.

Someone else had suggested it so that it would not block access to the voltage sense contact or short any components.  I thought it was a good suggestion.  But you're right.  I might move them flat again.

60 (edited by fdm_process 2016-03-23 15:52:08)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Alright, here are a couple of questions while I wait for my pin connectors to arrive. I have an option for either 8mhz or 16mhz version of my 1284p board in Arduino, does that matter, is that just the refresh rate of the screen?

Finally, I am following the Makerfarm Pegasus guide for the connections as it's the most detailed and easily understood guide out there for connecting up your RAMPS, my question is that guide shows the end stop wires connected to the two pins on the left side and the current solidoodle configuration has them on the left and right with the center hole left empty. Does that matter?

Thanks for your help everyone. My Solidoodle has been sitting idle for almost a year now and I would love to be able to get it running again.

61

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Alright, getting "avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00" I assume this is because I have a Mega 2560. What should I be doing if I have that board?

62

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

In the tools drop dos you need to select the correct com port and the correct board and chip.  That is a communications error.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

63 (edited by fdm_process 2016-03-23 18:54:45)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I was following the instructions posted in here and I have the right com port selected as well as the Sanguino W/ATmega 1284p 16mhz (I've got an LCD/SD combo). Is there a certain programmer I should be running?

When I try to run it through with Mega 2560, I get a completely different error. Is there a marlin download setup for the Mega 2560 and the solidoodle?

64

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

fdm_process wrote:

Alright, here are a couple of questions while I wait for my pin connectors to arrive. I have an option for either 8mhz or 16mhz version of my 1284p board in Arduino, does that matter, is that just the refresh rate of the screen?

No, the 8Mhz or 16Mhz are the CPU speeds. 

However, my understanding is the RAMPS requires a Mega 2560, not 1280.  The basic difference is in the mount of programing space (128K vs. 256K).

Maybe someone more proficient on this can chime in about which version works OK with the RAMPS 1.4.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

65

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I have a Mega 2560. I think I must be trying to use the wrong version of the firmware. This is the kit I have. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Co … ge_o07_s00

I'd really appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction.

66 (edited by fdm_process 2016-03-23 19:19:54)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I seem to have to figured it out. In configuration.h I needed to change my board type from 62 to 33. I'll let you know if everything is working as it should once my micro jumpers arrive in the mail. Waiting is the hardest part some times.