26

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Oh.. and make sure your end-stops are actually configured correctly... should have mentioned that...

Use M119 to see what their status is - you want them triggered when they are pressed in.. if they read backwards (say triggered when the endstop isn't active...) then invert their values in firmware as well - again in configuration.h you'll see a section that talks about endstops inverted... The reason it might not back off is because the end-stop could actually be being read backwards....

27

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

adrian wrote:

doesn't really matter - was just curious where the settings you had originated from...

Just make sure the lines above are uncommented ; and regarding the inverting steppers - just set it either way and test it - worst that happens is the extruder goes backwards or the right way smile

Thanks,  I got the printer put back in it's little alcove, and everything's tidied up real nice, so I don't feel like taking things apart just now, so I'll reflash the firmware.

BTW, the section on the homing retract was no commented out, only the line about diagonal homing.  It looked like this:

#define X_HOME_RETRACT_MM 5
#define Y_HOME_RETRACT_MM 5
#define Z_HOME_RETRACT_MM 1
//#define QUICK_HOME  //if this is defined, if both x and y are to be homed, a diagonal move will be performed initially.

I un-commented  the last line and changed the 1 to a 5 on the Z retract.

I'll flash this in the next few minutes and let you know how it works.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

28

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Sounds like the end stops will need reversing then... but check with m119

29 (edited by pirvan 2014-03-02 03:39:10)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

adrian wrote:

Oh.. and make sure your end-stops are actually configured correctly... should have mentioned that...

Use M119 to see what their status is - you want them triggered when they are pressed in.. if they read backwards (say triggered when the endstop isn't active...) then invert their values in firmware as well - again in configuration.h you'll see a section that talks about endstops inverted... The reason it might not back off is because the end-stop could actually be being read backwards....

Yeah, they're OK,
19:27:38.786 : x_min: TRIGGERED
19:27:38.786 : x_max: open
19:27:38.786 : y_min: TRIGGERED
19:27:38.786 : y_max: open
19:27:38.790 : z_min: open
19:27:38.790 : z_max: TRIGGERED

The ones that have not switch, are shown as triggered, the others are open because they're not pressed.

Should I put some jumpers on the unused endstop headers?

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

30

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Flashed the firmware.

The extruder is now working correctly, and the QUICK_HOME is working but I still can't get the retract to work when I home in.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

31

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

You need to redefine your unused endstops to -1 in pins.h. It is trying to read the x-min, y-min and z-max endstops (which are not connected physically) and are giving false readings that they are triggered.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

32

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

That's what did it.  Thanks Hazer.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

33

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Sorry for the stupid question,  the answer may be right in front of me but I am not seeing it.  I've been trying to upgrade from the Sang to Ramps 1.4 and can now (after some basic mistakes like not having all 3 jumpers connected) get fluid motion, but only in one direction.  That is to say x, y, and z will all move towards their home position, but will not move back in the opposite direction.  I thought it may be a problem with how the limit switches are wired and have tried all configurations (no, nc) and the problem persists.  I'm starting to think I may have shorted something on the ramps or Mega boards but thought I would reach out for help before biting the bullet and buying new boards/stepper drivers.  Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Frank

34

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Might not be of great help, but I had the same problem.   It wasn't the board, but I don't recall what it was.  It may have been the min/max setting in the firmware. Or a combination of connectors on in reverse order and firmware.

I remember it took some trial and error to get it working.

35

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I know you said you've checked your endstops - but make sure they are reporting the correct 'state' - not just they work. To do this, check with M119 and make sure they say 'open' when the axis is off the limit switches, and 'triggered' when they are on. Make sure as well the MAX/MIN settings are correct in RepetierHost still (RH Printer Settings -> Printer Shape -> Home Pos)

Also as reminded by Hazer - make sure you are marking any unused endstops as disabled in the firmware.

36

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

adrian wrote:

I know you said you've checked your endstops - but make sure they are reporting the correct 'state' - not just they work. To do this, check with M119 and make sure they say 'open' when the axis is off the limit switches, and 'triggered' when they are on. Make sure as well the MAX/MIN settings are correct in RepetierHost still (RH Printer Settings -> Printer Shape -> Home Pos)

Also as reminded by Hazer - make sure you are marking any unused endstops as disabled in the firmware.

+1

We just discussed this 4 posts above yours. Movement in only one direction is always caused by endstops being triggered. And all 6 endstops are enabled by default for RAMPS, so put a -1 on the ones you are not using.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

37

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

The end stops we're not disabled under pins.h.  I put a -1 after the X and Y min and  Z max to disable.  Seems obvious now, not sure why the other posts didn't sink in.  I guess it's like anything in that you need to put your time in to understand it and make progress.  At any rate, you guys are awesome.  Really appreciate the help!
Frank

38 (edited by pirvan 2014-03-09 15:49:21)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

For those that are not inclined to re-flash their firmware, there's also a very simple workaround.  Put a jumper cap on the unused headers (X-Min, Y-Min, Z-Max).  It will achieve the same effect as having an open switch connected.

NOTE:  on the Solidoodle, and "Open" switch is actually a misnomer, because the way the switches are installed, their "logic" is backwards.  When the switch is pressed, it reads as "TRIGGERED", but in fact, the circuit is open (no continuity), when the switch is not pressed, it reads as "OPEN", but the circuit is closed (continuity).

That is why if you put a jumper cap across the header pins, it thinks there's an "OPEN" switch connected.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

39

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

thats a good idea.

40

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I agree and makes perfect sense now.  Thanks

41 (edited by tmclean 2014-06-15 16:49:04)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Hello
I was wondering if anyone could help with an issue. I have flashed the Marlin Beta firmware from here ( the latest one ) to my Ramps 1.4 Sainsmart and am using a new E3d v6 extruder. When I go into Repetier an press heat extruder it only goes to about 55 then stops. If I use PID auto tune via the Gcode enter it heats up and does its thing. But still wont work with the heat extruder button. Also I noticed that the bed temp wasnt showing next to the extruder temp at the bottom.
Thank you for your time.

42

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Is there some info on setting the pins.h for my Ramps?

43

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I have a solidoodle 2 it had a printboard on it going to new   ramps 1.4 q is I got the A4988 drivers will that work? also got oem heat bed that came with sd2 will that work with ramps 1.4? thanks

44

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Yep and yep.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

45

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I got all that done now need some help with 100K NTC thermistor not sure what I have or what settings to use in marlin I got all metal hotend from ebay

46

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Got a link for your hot end?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

47

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

im gonna make the jump up to a a ramps 1.4 board. i want to get my sd2 really up to spec. However when it comes to programming i am very poorly qualified. are there any step by steps idiots level guides to things like reading and calibrating vref values?

SD2 - mirror bed - e3d v6 - extruder cooling fan - no enclosure.

48 (edited by IronMan 2014-12-03 18:25:14)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

I have not done the upgrade to RAMPS on my SD2 yet, but when I do, I would use this as a start:

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/how … ontroller/

Not exactly a beginner's guide, but I trust the author implicitly...

EDIT:  Sorry...I guess I should have read the beginning of the post tongue

But seriously, this is a very good guide...

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

49

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Hey all.  This is great info. I've heard a lot about how great rumba is, but I have a brand new ramps 1.4 with all the bells and whistles.  aside from a separate heated bed circuit, whats the advantage?  I have a workbench coming, and I was thinking of finally putting the ramps to work.  I may save it for my prusa if the sanguinololu ever fails.  I'd love to get someones opinion one way or the other.  I can  buy the rumba, but I'd love to use the money someplace more productive, like a pair of bulldogs, if the difference isn't that big.

Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.

50 (edited by adrian 2015-04-01 17:26:54)

Re: How-To: Converting to a RAMPS Controller

Difference is better heat bed circuit and extra drivers and more mosfets... But frankly... If you have a RAMPS already unless you have a cause to realise the differences (such as doing funky stuff with fans or extra stepper motors )  then the benefits aren't necessarily tangible.

If buying from scratch or because you want to do dual heads and use extra fans etc... Then the Rumba is a better buy..

Good luck with the upgrades