1 Topic by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-05-23 23:37:17)

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Topic: Hot end melt down 320C +

My hotend just ramped up to over 320C. Unfortunately, I don’t have the logs from when it started ramping up. I thought that it was just reporting wrong so I restarted repetier. When I saw the temp rise over 320C I pulled the plug because the software wasn’t shutting it off and I saw the barrel of my hotend falling out of the PEEK. Anyways, I am out of commission. I think my electronics might be screwy.

Any ideas how this could happen?

This happened with my
Solidoodle 3
Software:
Repetier-Host Solidoodle V0.82b
Slic3r 0.9.9

Stock hotend and electronics.

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SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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2 Reply by coleke

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

You might have a bad connection to your thermistor- from what I gather if the temp sensor fails mid print, the board will see 3 degrees Celsius and attempt to increase the hot end temp. However I think this was fixed in a firmware update. Are you using Lawsy's firmware or stock?

Grand Rapids, Michigan
SD2 with Sanguinololu board, glass bed mod, E3d_v5 bowden version hotend (currently direct drive), Lawsy Mk5 jigsaw replacement, octopi printserver, drv8825(tiny troubles)

3 Reply by Rincewind

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

coleke wrote:

You might have a bad connection to your thermistor- from what I gather if the temp sensor fails mid print, the board will see 3 degrees Celsius and attempt to increase the hot end temp. However I think this was fixed in a firmware update. Are you using Lawsy's firmware or stock?

Yes but that wouldn't explain why he's seeing 320°C in Repetier, and rising... That's a really odd behavior... Unless the thermistor failed and then started working again when it was already too late.

4 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

the thermistor was reading the entire time. The power to the heater never backed off.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

5 Reply by Rincewind

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

I think then it should be a drain-source short circuit of the MOSFET in the hotend drive. Apparently those little buggers do that. If you are lucky, the atmega pin is still ok and you can just replace the mosfet (and the hotend). If you are unlucky, the pin is fried too and you need to replace the chip... Sorry for the bad scenario...

6 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

I'm getting replacement board and hotend so I can troubleshoot the board and have spares for when/if this happens again. I am beginning to understand that in the world of 3D printing, you can never have enough spares. I have all the recommended spare parts printed but now I will have some spare electronics too. I might need help troubleshooting the board. I will post what went wrong when I find it.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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7 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

Rincewind wrote:

I think then it should be a drain-source short circuit of the MOSFET in the hotend drive. Apparently those little buggers do that. If you are lucky, the atmega pin is still ok and you can just replace the mosfet (and the hotend). If you are unlucky, the pin is fried too and you need to replace the chip... Sorry for the bad scenario...

I think you are right about the mosfet. When I plug power into the board the hotend starts heating up with out the extruder heater button selected.

While I wait for my new Mosfet I just switched the one for the heated bed and the hotend. Anything to get me back up and running.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

8 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

If you are picking up spares, consider ordering a stepper driver or two.  When I had to send my Azteeg in for replacement after I fried something, I was able to get my Sanguinololu back into service.  When one of the Pololu steppers burned out, I swapped it for one of the drivers I got with the Azteeg.  I started getting Y skipping, and fixed that by replacing its driver as well.

You don't need to completely duplicate the printer, but picking up some spares here and there when you don't need them will make you very happy if you eventually do.  Nozzles, PEEK barrels, and resistors would be at the top of that list.

9 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

So the mosfet switch worked as a temporary fix. I was unable to successfully get my hotend back together however. It was way too far gone. The peek won't hold the barrel. I am hoping my SD replacement ships soon or that I get one of the other hotends that I have ordered.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

10 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

IanJohnson wrote:

If you are picking up spares, consider ordering a stepper driver or two.  When I had to send my Azteeg in for replacement after I fried something, I was able to get my Sanguinololu back into service.  When one of the Pololu steppers burned out, I swapped it for one of the drivers I got with the Azteeg.  I started getting Y skipping, and fixed that by replacing its driver as well.

You don't need to completely duplicate the printer, but picking up some spares here and there when you don't need them will make you very happy if you eventually do.  Nozzles, PEEK barrels, and resistors would be at the top of that list.

Good call on the PEEK. I could use one right now.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

11 Reply by Staffordknot

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

Oh no that makes my problems trivial! I've ordered an all metal hotend with built in fan form e3d. They are british so easy for me to pick up. Where is the best place to get spare eletronics etc? From reprap?

12 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

I would recommend an Azteeg X1 as a sanguinololu equivalent, or X3 as an upgrade, from panucatt.com.  The X1 is better quality than Sanguinololu, supports a gcode  controlled fan directly, and has headers for plugging in a SDRAMPS card reader.

13 Reply by 2n2r5

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

IanJohnson wrote:

I would recommend an Azteeg X1 as a sanguinololu equivalent, or X3 as an upgrade, from panucatt.com.  The X1 is better quality than Sanguinololu, supports a gcode  controlled fan directly, and has headers for plugging in a SDRAMPS card reader.

That X3 is pretty. Is the AtMEGA2560 compatible wit the Sanguinololu? I have a spare Sanguinololu that I am going to use as a test board for my bowden setup. However, it doesn't have the ability to attach a second extruder so I will need something with more drivers. The X3 is almost overkill in that department with 8 driver slots! wow!

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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14 Reply by 2n2r5 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-05-25 00:05:17)

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

Back up and running with PrintrBot hotend. The mounting is way too tight so I am going to make a new mk4 receiver with a little play in the mounting. I also had to harvest the old connectors from the stock hotend. The thermistor seems to be the same so after a quick PID Autotune and adding 1/2 inch to the z-end stop switch I am printing again. I don't think that my replacement hotend from solidoodle has even shipped yet. Looks like this will be my new setup for a while.

Note: Also had to change the firmware to accept my new hotend operating temp of 220C (max for me is 235 now). They put this thermistor on top of the heating element pretty much.

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SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2n2r5's Website

15 Reply by pcpoirier (edited by pcpoirier 2013-05-27 12:45:02)

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

http://www.soliwiki.com/%27%27%27Extrud … p%27%27%27

16 Reply by Staffordknot

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Re: Hot end melt down 320C +

Love the name print! Glad your back up and runnimg!