All bearing Y axis conversion (Page 2 of 3)

Many Mendel machines run dual z motors off of one driver. Like Adrian said, I would shy away from this until you upgrade electronics to better drivers that can handle it.

I had minimal to no backlash issues on stock SD3 after updating firmware with hysteresis correction. Took some tests to find the best correction values.

smitty

I downloaded the idler blocks. but what is the best way to print on the bed?
It lays flat with the bottom of the bracket on the bed. But there is like 5 layers of print, little shelf on the bottom, before it prints the complete bottom? What is this for? I tried centering so it is chopped off my print but slcir stills sees these as layers.

bottom down looks like the way to print since top down will have overhang and sides will need support.

Well I will find out tonight. I have several sets of bearings on my desk now 6x19x6, 5x16x5, 6x13x6 flanged,5z13x5 flanged
and LM8UU I am doing the carriage xy upgrade first and test things out, then if good  I will print the rear Y pulley support, and the front idler arms, and then upgrade the bushings to bearings and do the fine Y rod upgrade

last but not least will be the MK5 head and Extruder fan.

Then I hope my SD2 mods are done. I hope I can then print at 2x speeds with no skips and much less if any banding. I get Z humps around layers 24-29 about 1/8" jump forward 50% of the time. the normal bands look ok. I do get skips on circles for sure if I print large circle patterns above 25 layers. I can usually print and design around it not to bad but sometimes it is.

then love to print a stronger more robust and much faster larger format printer.

No problem, what in particular you want to see?

didi you try light sanding of the rod and ream the bearings?

Not sure what's up with the rod but I had the same issue, almost like it's not really 6mm but something in between that and 5/16 which I recall is the closest Imperial equivalent. There is a significant delta between the OD of the rod and the ID of the bearings, at least the ones I had on hand, so I would not try heating them to install. Once they cool it's possible that they might be so tight they won't want to turn or in a worst case the inner race may crack although I doubt it given how soft the metal in the rod is.

My solution, I put the rod in my metal lathe and turned the ends down until the bearings fit then cut inward to get to where I wanted to place the bearings. I used two, one on each end since turning the ends left the rod a bit too small for the bushings which I left in place because they didn't want to come out easily and I had enough aggravation getting the shaft out in the first place!

What about this size?
http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inv … R696ZZC250
6.35x15x5

Would be .35mm wider in Diameter than recommended in this thread. I am measuring diameter of my Y rod at 6.04 to 6.12mm depending on where I measure it. I measured the diameter of the supposed 6mm bearings at 5.8mm. So if the 6.35mm bearings stay true to the pattern of being .2mm smaller than advertised like the 6mm bearings, maybe they will come out at 6.15mm and will only be slightly bigger than the 6.04 to 6.12mm rod?

What say you guys?

The problem is that they are 15mm wide instead of 13mm so the pillow block will need to be adjusted or redesigned. I would be willing to order these bigger bearings and give it a test run if someone here can modify the pillow block design to accomadate them.

As per other thread - a 6mm ID bearing is supposed to be 6mm - the .2mm is a quality control issue and not how 'it should be'. 6mm = 6mm.....

Mol..

How did u print these blocks? The stl has a small 5 layer ledge on the bottom that won't lay flat so it screws up and that is the best way to print it. Not the sides otherwise it needs support or has poor fill in the rounds ?
Am I missing something ? I used the model linked on prior page

i just flipped it right side up printed just fine. that little lip is gonna is gonna line up with the frame