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Re: Filament Winder

One thing to consider on the 12v vs 120v debate is that in at least one case (the ExtrusionBot) the unit extrudes much faster than a Filastruder.  In order to keep up with the thermal demand of melting that much plastic, you need to be able to make sure the heater can keep up.  Sure, you could do it with a high current 12v supply, but when you start playing with that much current, I don't know if it's any different where possibilities of fire are concerned.  Wall outlets are free, but high current 12v supplies aren't.

The Filastruder is quite safe in use.  I accidentally left the heater on and went to bed.  Smelled some hot plastic the next morning, but no smoke or flames.  On the bright side, it was ready to make filament after removing the wad at the end and pushing out the overcooked stuff.  I'll make sure I don't do that again tongue.  But after that incident, I am happy that it is as safe as it is.  I won't lie and say that I haven't considered putting a bigger heater and a faster motor on the unit though, just to see how far it can be pushed while still making quality filament.

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Orb wrote:

One thing to consider on the 12v vs 120v debate is that in at least one case (the ExtrusionBot) the unit extrudes much faster than a Filastruder.  In order to keep up with the thermal demand of melting that much plastic, you need to be able to make sure the heater can keep up.  Sure, you could do it with a high current 12v supply, but when you start playing with that much current, I don't know if it's any different where possibilities of fire are concerned.  Wall outlets are free, but high current 12v supplies aren't.

Barely any of the heat goes into melting the plastic.

ABS has a heat capacity of around 1300J/kg-k. We need to raise it around 180K, so that's 234kJ/kg. Even at 1m/min, that's 5 hours/kg (which calls into question some of ExtrusionBot's marketing, but moving on...).

234kJ is 65watt-hours. You have 5 hours to put that energy in. That's 13 watts. So: ExtrusionBot needs 13 watts of heat into the ABS to melt it. On the other hand, the Filastruder runs at about half that speed so you need 6.5 watts of heat into the ABS.

Typically, the Filastruder runs a 40w heater at 80% duty cycle to extrude ABS, depending on ambient temperature and how the insulation is positioned. Moving to 100% would make up the remaining 6.5w needed.

It is possible I made a math error as this is all back of the envelope, but the fact remains: You don't need a massive heater. Most of the heat is lost to atmosphere. I'd guess about 10w off the nozzle face, 10w off the pipe, 5w through the insulation, and the remaining wattage into the polymer.

There is no need for big heaters unless you're in pursuit of higher temperature plastics.

Orb wrote:

The Filastruder is quite safe in use.  I accidentally left the heater on and went to bed.  Smelled some hot plastic the next morning, but no smoke or flames.  On the bright side, it was ready to make filament after removing the wad at the end and pushing out the overcooked stuff.  I'll make sure I don't do that again tongue.  But after that incident, I am happy that it is as safe as it is.

I'm glad everything was okay, but please be careful in the future! I put mine on a timer that shuts off at midnight every night in case I ever forget.

Orb wrote:

I won't lie and say that I haven't considered putting a bigger heater and a faster motor on the unit though, just to see how far it can be pushed while still making quality filament.

Feel free to try a bigger motor, or the upgraded motor in the store + active cooling + 15-18v. I've done it before and it seems to work well and push another 50% or so in speed.

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elmoret wrote:

Barely any of the heat goes into melting the plastic.

ABS has a heat capacity of around 1300J/kg-k. We need to raise it around 180K, so that's 234kJ/kg. Even at 1m/min, that's 5 hours/kg (which calls into question some of ExtrusionBot's marketing, but moving on...).

234kJ is 65watt-hours. You have 5 hours to put that energy in. That's 13 watts. So: ExtrusionBot needs 13 watts of heat into the ABS to melt it. On the other hand, the Filastruder runs at about half that speed so you need 6.5 watts of heat into the ABS.

Typically, the Filastruder runs a 40w heater at 80% duty cycle to extrude ABS, depending on ambient temperature and how the insulation is positioned. Moving to 100% would make up the remaining 6.5w needed.

It is possible I made a math error as this is all back of the envelope, but the fact remains: You don't need a massive heater. Most of the heat is lost to atmosphere. I'd guess about 10w off the nozzle face, 10w off the pipe, 5w through the insulation, and the remaining wattage into the polymer.

There is no need for big heaters unless you're in pursuit of higher temperature plastics.

I think this assessment is incomplete.  The MFI at the same pressure can increase by 50% or more with a 10 degree increase from 220C to 230C, and can increase by an order of magnitude through doubling of pressure at the same temp.  The pressure this system can exert is limited, and can be affected by increased viscosity as a result of the heater not being able to keep up with changes in demand.  The rate of extrusion is not precisely controlled in this arrangement, therefore the demand can vary from one moment to the next.  Autotuning the PID will help, once the entire system is normalized, but when things are running that close to the limits, I'm not sure it's as effective as it could be.  I extrude at about 200C, and that seems to be very close to the limits.  But given the large increase in MFI over a 10 degree increase, intuition tells me that higher extrusion rates are possible at the same pressures.  A larger heater will not only provide the ability to comfortably handle the higher temperature, but will also more quickly overcome changes in demand, which will in turn provide for better process control.

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That assessment is just plain math. You said that 40w isn't enough to keep up with doubled polymer flow rates. That simply isn't true, because so little of the heat actually goes to melting the polymer. I have run higher MFI polymers with the standard 40w heater at up to 40inches per minute.

The stock Filastruder can hold +/-1C no problem. It's hard to get better than that without true PID control (varying heat intensity continuously instead of on/off), regardless of heater size. The heater size is not a limiting factor here. In fact a larger heater is arguably worse, since it would result in larger swings locally to ensure the temperature at the measured point (assuming the current PID/bang-bang hybrid control scheme)

The process is very nearly constant. There are not large disturbances in the system. You don't need a massive actuator (the heater, in our case)

Extruding ABS at 210C results in poor quality filament, in my experience. The surface becomes very rough.

The point is, even if you decided you needed 50% more power (which is crazy!), at most you would need 60w, which is well within the range of inexpensive power supplies.

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elmoret wrote:

I can hold +/-1C no problem. It's hard to get better than that without true PID control, regardless of heater size. The heater size is not a limiting factor here. In fact a larger heater is arguably worse, since it would result in larger swings locally to ensure the temperature at the measured point (assuming the current PID/bang-bang hybrid control scheme)

Given the mass of the coupling, I don't think larger swings will will be any sort of issue.  The PID autotuning would be effective in smoothing this out.  Given that the nozzle (the measured point) is directly coupled to the metal part to which the heater is attached, and that heat conduction is better through metal than plastic, it shouldn't have a negative impact on the material in the way of localized overheating.

With higher extrusion rates and temps, that +/- 1C seems to have an appreciable affect on diameter.  When I see a variation, I literally change the temp 1 degree to correct it.  This makes sense, as the hotter material is less viscous, and as the forces of gravity are applied, there is more stretching.  The MFI doesn't seem to increase linearly with temperature, so I would expect that the ability to more quickly react to changes would be more important at higher temps / extrusion rates.  I'm really not talking about the ability of the heater to melt the ABS, rather the speed at which it can accommodate a change in demand.  Without a well controlled introduction of unmelted polymer into the melt area at a very consistent pressure, the demand is a moving target.  The slower the heater is able react to this, the more variation there will be.  All those losses in the system make the heater that much slower to actually affect the temperature of the polymer.

Of course, none of this really has any bearing on the standard Filastruder unit, but when trying to look at the limits of modifications, or to perhaps understand what other faster extruders are doing, a lot of this probably comes into play.

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But you aren't measuring the mass of the coupling, you're measuring the nozzle (which isn my experience is what matters most). It is simple thermodynamics. If your heater is only capable of 300W or 0W, and you need an average power of 40W with a switching period of 20s, you will see a wider variation *at the meltzone* for a given temperature at the nozzle.

If you decrease (or eliminate, by changing to true PID) the switching period, then, the heater size doesn't matter. But then you've increased the BOM cost (adding a SSR or MOSFET + bigger heater) and decreased safety (if heater get stuck on, temps will approach 400C), which were two of the main design goals.

Again, it is hard to get better than +/-1C without spending more money, and a bigger heater doesn't get you there - it actually gets you further away. Think of it as trying to get a soccer ball into a goal with a car or with your hands. The car can hit the ball harder and faster, but that isn't always good.

Anyway, if you want to discuss more lets take it to PMs or another thread. This doesn't have much to do with filament winding anymore.

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Re: Filament Winder

Just saw Ian's post http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:174383 of his FilaWinder. It looks FANTASTIC. Plenty of video, too.

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2n2r5 has pictures up too:

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:53219

159 (edited by RavensCrest 2013-11-14 22:29:26)

Re: Filament Winder

can't wait!! it will also give me an excuse to buy that filter nozzle.(possible combine shipping?)
is there an estimate on how much it would be?

one question... how do you get it in the tube in the first place? i can imagin everytime you touch it, it will deform the filament closer to nozzle.

Solidoodle2 with Ceramic tile heated bed http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2544/my- … eated-bed/
"1kg should last for an while" is a lie!

160 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-11-14 22:41:54)

Re: Filament Winder

RavensCrest wrote:

can't wait!! it will also give me an excuse to buy that filter nozzle.(possible combine shipping?)
is there an estimate on how much it would be?

one question... how do you get it in the tube in the first place? i can imagin everytime you touch it, it will deform the filament closer to nozzle.


I will have to see if Ian posted a how to for that. If not I will post a video of how I do it.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

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Any word yet on when this will be available for purchase?

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Re: Filament Winder

gwfami wrote:

Any word yet on when this will be available for purchase?

Wondering this too, Haven't really used my Filastruder much since I'm waiting for some kind of winder.

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Re: Filament Winder

Everything is ready to go, the only holdup is the electronics.  I'm still waiting for a final timeline on them, but it will probably be about a month.

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Re: Filament Winder

Hi Ian,

Love the work. Will this be available for self-builds?

Chris

165 (edited by bernabap 2013-12-16 18:53:20)

Re: Filament Winder

Great project Ian, cant wait to have this thing working here!

I am trying to make the pcb and noticed that your PDFs from thingiverse are missing the GND and VCC layers. When I applied the ratsnest into your FilaWinder.brd I saw that some of the GND pins at the bottom layer was not been connected to main GND (left image - red marked area) thats why it shows an unrouted line at the bottom left. I dont have sure if this is a problem or if the files are not updated but I did some modifications to "fix" this and make it easier for the toner transfer method (right image).
 
http://i.imgur.com/iYsYhAV.png

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Re: Filament Winder

Well... My plan was to solder the arduino nano directly on the board, so I could use their own pins as vias soldering on top and bottom. However this proved a very difficult task, I could not even stick the Arduino in the holes so I ended up rerouting the wires. Brought most of the connections to the bottom layer leaving only vias and some pins to be soldered on top.

For my first time I tried to use one of these UV inks:

http://i.imgur.com/7yXtXpC.jpg

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Re: Filament Winder

Would you consider posting a derivative on Thingiverse with the changes?  The original schematic works fine for ordering boards, and I like the idea of having a DIY friendly version, but I don't want to create confusion between the two.

Where did you get the ink?  I like the idea of doing a solder mask that way.  Running another toner transfer on top wouldn't work as well for me because my laser printer doesn't do solid fields of black very well.

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Re: Filament Winder

Ian,
I really like mine, I am up to 9 kg  now with no problems. I have been running 24/7 for 10 days now.
I have never seen reliability in a beta like this before,
thanks again

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Re: Filament Winder

supraflyer wrote:

Ian,
I really like mine, I am up to 9 kg  now with no problems. I have been running 24/7 for 10 days now.
I have never seen reliability in a beta like this before,
thanks again

Are you making filament just for yourself, or selling it also?

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Re: Filament Winder

Filament is for myself, However if Tim wants some I would make him a great deal(lol)

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Re: Filament Winder

supraflyer wrote:

Filament is for myself, However if Tim wants some I would make him a great deal(lol)

LOL... like THAT would ever happen wink... he's happy with what he produces (and so am I, both with what he made and what I'm making for myself now!)

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Re: Filament Winder

9kg in a week is a lot for one person to use! I don't even use that much, and I run my printer 12 hours a day.

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Re: Filament Winder

Yeah actually it has been 10 days and I only use about a pound a week. I have made all the base colors and am making the black last. It has gone very slowly. instead of 9 inches per minute I am only getting 3-4. This last three days has been a mess. I have replaced the shim twice and cleaned the mesh filter in acetone. I don't understand the slowing of the filament rate at all. If you have any good ideas I would like to try them.
Thanks in advance

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Re: Filament Winder

Which gear motor? What temperature? MG94 ABS?

Also - you're right, 10 days. My mistake.

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Re: Filament Winder

I wonder if the masterbatch is reducing the melt flow index.  When I extrude clear MABS I get 3"/min, and natural MG94 can go as fast as 16"/min.  The MFI of the clear is 34, vs. 42 for MG94 under equivalent tests (10KG pressure @ 220C).  I've been told that the effects of MFI, temp, motor speed etc do not scale linearly so a small change in those factors can have a big effect.

Try running natural pellets though from awhile with no masterbatch and see if there is a change.  This video shows the speed difference I got when I purged the low MFI plastic with higher MFI.