26 (edited by mcsdaver 2013-09-10 15:15:07)

Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

Hairspray makes the parts stick very well, but you still need to cover the sides and top of your printer to keep cool air from warping your print.
I just used cardboard for the sides and top and clear plastic for the front so I could watch my prints.
This helps so very much, all of these printers should come like this.
You don't need to spray hairspray before every print.
I found the parts stick well for 3 or 4 prints.
Never spay while printing or the head will clog!

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Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

And when going from one filament to another, re-check the filament settings.  Had my white "trial" ABS dialled in nicely.  Ran out so switched to a 1kg roll of green ABS.  Much curling and swearing later, have re-run calibration cube.  Sides much thicker, bottom much thinner. 

Ran mic over everything and the ABS that I measured at the start actually got thicker through the roll.  Also the extrusion multiplier needed resetting from 1.03 down to .85 (a fair old difference). 

Calibration cube now looks good.  Have now dropped a Mk5 plus fan in to see what happens (preparing to recalibrate everything all over again smile )

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Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

I've been playing with my SD3 for a couple of months and learned through trial and error in combination with information from subscribers on this site how to control the adhesion of the first layer of plastic to the print table.  Ther may be better solution out there but I have found what works best for me:

    Clamp a 1/8" Borocilicate glass plate to the table to overcome the table warpage  - McMaster #8476k18 $24.62 .  This will allow the extruder to table clearance to be consistent in all x-y positions.

      Enclose the printer with a box. I used 3/16" Acrylic sheets 14 x 14.  This retains the heat and at a more constant temperature.

        Allow the table temperature to stabilize for at least 10 minutes at 105C

          Suave Hair Spray- Max hold. Spay on hot table and start printing within 30 seconds.  ANy longer and the hair spray will dry out.

          I'm open to other ideas that work better, but if you're still having problems this is worth trying.

          Peter

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          29

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          Hello All,

          Can someone put a screen shot up of where the following setting need to be adjusted in repetier:

          Settings to try-
              In Slic3r set the First layer extrusion width to 150%
              Set the first layer to print 5C hotter
              Set the first layer to print slower.

          The reason I'm asking is this references Slic3r and in repetier the only place I see where you can adjust the first layer is under the G-Code editor tab and that only allows me to go to 100 not 150. I found this confusing because when I look under the Slic3r tab there is no option to allow me to change the first layer settings.


          Thank you for your time and review,

          30

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          In the Slicer tab click on the Configure button and it will open up Slic3r.  Slic3r is a separate program that Repetier accesses through a command line.  Those settings are in Slic3r itself, rather than in Repetier.

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          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          Thank you very much Ian! I didn't realize that opened up another window.  Thanks for the fast reply.

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          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          I had a day where nothing would stick no matter what I did. Long story short, my nozzle had a partial obstruction. I took it off, hit it with a torch and the problem was gone.

          33

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          try to avoid straying hairspray near you machine . If you have adhesion problems with your Kapton tape  use a jewlery cleaning cloth to remove oxidation. E bay has precut squares4x4 6x 8x8 with lift tapes and prep cloth in 2 mil. ( search Kapton 8x8 tape

          34

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          try to avoid straying hairspray near you machine . If you have adhesion problems with your Kapton tape  use a jewlery cleaning cloth to remove oxidation. E bay has precut squares4x4 6x 8x8 with lift tapes and prep cloth in 2 mil. ( search Kapton 8x8 tape

          35

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          So after wringing my hands and fretting for days now, I found this forum and am sooo happy to see this is just an easily fixed issue and not a design flaw or a major issue with the models Ive been using.  Ill start trying some of these suggestions tonite and let you guys know how it goes!  thanks guys!!!

          36

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          In my case ,after a lot of frustration and trying many suggestions, I think I solved the wrapping/ curling problem.I tried  hairspray on the glass bed  with some success,but now I am using ELMERS purple glue stick.( was suggested in earlier post)It sticks real well( sometimes too well ) lol need a chistle to get the print off. J/K .Also I have enclosed the printer using foil backed foam sheating. I  can get the  temperature up to about 128F/53.3C ,which really helps.
          Just my opinion, I  think SD should ship each printer with  a glue stick, it would make for more happier customers.

          SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

          37

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          Parts not sticking to your new shiny Kapton covered heated build platform?

          I have been testing various methods to get parts to stick to new Kapton sheets for
          several years now. Acetone, steel wool, sandpaper, Dawn detergent, etc.

          I finally found something that worked perfectly the first time.

          1. Create micro cracks on the surface of the Kapton by rubbing gently with
             a "3M Sandblaster sanding sponge FINE 180". I found this sanding sponge
             at the local hardware store.
             
          2. Clean surface with acetone ("professional nail polish remover, it's pure
             acetone).
             
          The "FINE 180" sanding sponge creates the perfect micro scratches in Kapton
          the aids adhesion to the Kapton at high temperature (95°C) but releases the
          part easily when cooled to roughly 50°C.

          Also at times I have noticed that parts stop sticking to seasoned Kapton
          after awhile. I traced this to finger oils on Kapton. Cleaning the surface
          with acetone or Dawn detergent cured that problem.

          Hope this helps!

          Solidoodle 1 thru 4

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          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          thaaaaaaaaaaanks

          39

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          When i was at uni i saw one of the guys wiping a coke soaked cloth over the bed and letting it try sticky, funnily enough it worked pretty well

          40

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          Question; the abs in acetone fix...is that done on the glass or the metal printbed itself.  My workbench came with a piece of glass.

          Thanks!

          41

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          If you have a piece of glass, put it on the surface side you will be printing on. The slurry will help the print stick to the glass bed.

          SD2
          E3D V6
          MK5 V6

          42

          Re: The plastic won't stick, it just drags around!

          I found abs juice works best on blue painters tape or kapton.  I set my bed at 90 degrees.

          Of course I know what I'm doing.  I googled it.