1

Topic: z banding

Ok, so this is a new thing happenng with my xyz JR1.0 NON pro. It does it now with either xyz filiment or hatchbox.

I have done a deep clean, made sure z offset was correct, made sure all bolts and screws were tight. Belt SEEMS good, could be wrong. Have not greased it yet. need to know how to do that.

but other than that, thats all i have done. Was thinking of a new nozzle, but i dont know if i want to drop 70$ on a new extruder.

thanks

http://soliforum.com/i/?djNITMY.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?dknxppU.jpg

Ideas of how to fix this or at least make it better?

Can i replace just the nozzle or do i really have to buy the entire extruder?

thanks

2 (edited by carl_m1968 2019-02-15 02:25:55)

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

Ok, so this is a new thing happenng with my xyz JR1.0 NON pro. It does it now with either xyz filiment or hatchbox.

I have done a deep clean, made sure z offset was correct, made sure all bolts and screws were tight. Belt SEEMS good, could be wrong. Have not greased it yet. need to know how to do that.

but other than that, thats all i have done. Was thinking of a new nozzle, but i dont know if i want to drop 70$ on a new extruder.

thanks

http://soliforum.com/i/?djNITMY.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?dknxppU.jpg

Ideas of how to fix this or at least make it better?

Can i replace just the nozzle or do i really have to buy the entire extruder?

thanks

Z banding is usually a mechanical issue in the Z axis such as a bent guide or bent screw. Not sure what you are calling z banding in those samples though. If anything the lines look over extruded to me and maybe not hot enough. They are all too round and pronounced.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3

Re: z banding

hmm, the web article i read the other day said z banding was the shift on the horizontal lines. Maybe they were misguided as well.

Yes, this was at 230C with hatchbox. i can try hotter and see what happens.

How could it be over extruded, if its to cool of a temp? i was under the impression that over extrusion was due to to hot of a temp causing a hiher flow rate?

thanks.

4 (edited by carl_m1968 2019-02-15 12:38:26)

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

hmm, the web article i read the other day said z banding was the shift on the horizontal lines. Maybe they were misguided as well.

Yes, this was at 230C with hatchbox. i can try hotter and see what happens.

How could it be over extruded, if its to cool of a temp? i was under the impression that over extrusion was due to to hot of a temp causing a hiher flow rate?

thanks.


Over extrusion is caused by poor calibration. Your extruder steps per mm should be calibrated properly. Otherwise when you ask for B amount of filament you may be getting C amount instead B amount.

Under extrusion can be cause by low temp but over extrusion is caused by poor calibration or incorrect slicer settings not having to do with temp.

Z banding is not a shift but instead bands that appear at regular intervals along the z axis of your print. In your image I assume you are talking about the place just above the letters. That is not Z banding since it only happens at that location.

The anomaly in your image can be a caused by a mechanical issue or an electrical issue. You could have a bad wire that is stressed at that point in the print and looses connection. It could even be a bad file. Do all prints have this anomaly or just this one?

The image below exhibits banding. Two of the same objects. Normal on bottom and banding on top. Notice as I said the banding repeats at regular intervals.

http://soliforum.com/i/?bvbd5pW.jpg

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

5

Re: z banding

thank you for that info. For my prints, it happens on all prints that are rectangular in nature. if it is circular, it is less pronounced.

I have made sure that all files are designed correctly, exported and solid before printing.

I did try the block again, this time at a higher temp and same issue. I might try to lower temp, and extrusion ration inside of the xyzprint software and see if that helps.

If it were a wire, which wire are we talking about? one in the ribbon cable or someplace else?

thanks

6

Re: z banding

Ok, so i made my own 25mm solid block, and I do not get that issue, however, i get a different issue haha. Notice on the bottom edge, the extrisuon, as it finishes, is super thick and overlaps the other shell. All 3 faces of the block are smooth except the one with the overlap, its jagged all the way up. Thanks for looking. Could be my filament, could be something else.

http://soliforum.com/i/?YgJKfSu.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?GfSUODE.jpg

7

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

Ok, so i made my own 25mm solid block, and I do not get that issue, however, i get a different issue haha. Notice on the bottom edge, the extrisuon, as it finishes, is super thick and overlaps the other shell. All 3 faces of the block are smooth except the one with the overlap, its jagged all the way up. Thanks for looking. Could be my filament, could be something else.

http://soliforum.com/i/?YgJKfSu.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?GfSUODE.jpg


Can't tell you much without seeing all your settings.. Looks like over extrusion still but if you have a stock XYZ and XYZ software there is not much you can do.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

8

Re: z banding

Forgive, sometimes i just forget to add those basic things. I tell you, thermodynamics is a brain killer class.

here are my settings from xyzprint software:
http://soliforum.com/i/?JReuZ31.png

9

Re: z banding

Two things I would change. Drop your first layer height to the same as all the other layers. It gets squished more due to your bed to nozzle clearance. I would also lower your extrusion ratio on both settings to 98 or lower. Just play with this value and reduce by two and see what looks best. Since you can't calibrate the steps per mm on the extruder of an XYZ machine this extrusion ratio setting is your only means to tune it.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

10

Re: z banding

carl_m1968 wrote:

Two things I would change. Drop your first layer height to the same as all the other layers. It gets squished more due to your bed to nozzle clearance. I would also lower your extrusion ratio on both settings to 98 or lower. Just play with this value and reduce by two and see what looks best. Since you can't calibrate the steps per mm on the extruder of an XYZ machine this extrusion ratio setting is your only means to tune it.


Awesome!! i will try that later today when i am home from work:)

Thank you much for the advice and help. Ill update with pics.

11

Re: z banding

Another thing to examine from my experience is the condition of the banding on opposite sides of the print. If a layer (or layers) is offset in one direction due to horizontal shifting of the bed, then the layers would be more of a complete zig-zag...on one side it would be hanging over proud and on the opposite side it would appear embossed.

If the banding is uniform on both sides, than over-extrusion or heat cycling is more likely the cause.

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Thanks for All of Your Help!

12 (edited by lt72884 2019-02-20 20:29:05)

Re: z banding

Ok, so after trying to set extrusion ration to 98%, first layer height to 0.30. the print comes out the same. Onall 3 prints with different settings, its only that one side with the issue. the opposite is even, no embossing or overhang. the other two sides are smooth as well.

I am using the hatchbox grey filament. not the xyz stuff.

I still think its over extruding. Or its the mere fact that this is a 200$ printer. Hence why i am saving money for a new folgertech i3 or ft5r2

thanks

EDIT:

not sure if i mentioned this but the printer is 3-4 years of age and its the original nozzle..

13

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

Ok, so after trying to set extrusion ration to 98%, first layer height to 0.30. the print comes out the same. Onall 3 prints with different settings, its only that one side with the issue. the opposite is even, no embossing or overhang. the other two sides are smooth as well.

I am using the hatchbox grey filament. not the xyz stuff.

I still think its over extruding. Or its the mere fact that this is a 200$ printer. Hence why i am saving money for a new folgertech i3 or ft5r2

thanks

EDIT:

not sure if i mentioned this but the printer is 3-4 years of age and its the original nozzle..

Share your STL file so we can try it and see what we get.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

14 (edited by lt72884 2019-02-21 06:01:36)

Re: z banding

ok, here is the file. thanks again:) I am using teh stock software. I have not branched out to anything else yet until i get the ft5 or i3, which i am way excited for. hopefully 6 months or less i will have one of those two

http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?fi … 4536723013

15

Re: z banding

bump:

any one try the stl file

16

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

bump:

any one try the stl file

My printer went down. i just got the parts to repair it and will work on it this weekend. I will try your stl once I get my machine up and running.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

17

Re: z banding

Oh man. i hate when printers go down. Im trying to save money for a new nozzle but its like $70 because you cant JUST replace the nozzle haha

thanks

18 (edited by bmlbytes 2019-03-11 17:39:34)

Re: z banding

lt72884 wrote:

Oh man. i hate when printers go down. Im trying to save money for a new nozzle but its like $70 because you cant JUST replace the nozzle haha

Print one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1724209
And one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620

Buy one of these (Bowden, 12v): https://e3d-online.com/lite6-hotend
Or preferably one of these (Bowden, 12v): https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend

You can wire up the new hotend to the wires where the old ones were, and you will be back up and running. The circuit board will need to be moved somewhere else, but that shouldn't be too difficult as long as everything still wires up the same.

After you do this setup, you can replace just the nozzle if it wears out again.

19

Re: z banding

bmlbytes wrote:
lt72884 wrote:

Oh man. i hate when printers go down. Im trying to save money for a new nozzle but its like $70 because you cant JUST replace the nozzle haha

Print one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1724209
And one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620

Buy one of these (Bowden, 12v): https://e3d-online.com/lite6-hotend
Or preferably one of these (Bowden, 12v): https://e3d-online.com/v6-all-metal-hotend

You can wire up the new hotend to the wires where the old ones were, and you will be back up and running. The circuit board will need to be moved somewhere else, but that shouldn't be too difficult as long as everything still wires up the same.

After you do this setup, you can replace just the nozzle if it wears out again.

thats awesome. do they sell the hotends in US dollars? everything seemed to be in another currency?

thanks for posting that for me. This might be a good option for me

20

Re: z banding

Filastruder.com is the US distributor for E3d.

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