Looking for Simplify3D settings for solidoodle 2

There is no standard formula.
That said I only use pla well so far 90% of the time I did try some Ngen and I just purchased a roll of print2cast. Even after 2 years of printing every roll of filament can be an adventure. every roll every color every print every machine has an ideal setting.
that said IMHO 3 perimeters 3 bottom layers 15-20%  honeycomb infill is a good place to start good filament will have a temp range middle of the road is like a good starting point.
Make sure your first layer is good . you may have to start a print a few times . It is not worth continuing if layer one is not right DAMHIKT.
are you getting good prints??

The simplify 3d troubleshooting guide is your best resource. IMHO even slic3r and cura users should have this link bookmarked.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/prin … eshooting/
That said I have had many compliments on my prints from more experienced users.

A better suggestion would be for you to post your settings and then we can help you figure out what to change so you can see where you went wrong in the first place.

also for starters try booting the heat to 200. and give a try

Is your nozzle a .35? Most are .40, a .35 is sort of an oddball you did on purpose size. If it is .35 then your extrusion width is wrong. In Simplify3d it should be set to auto. If you want to set it for manual the a .35 nozzle if that is what you have should be set for .42 and not the actual size of the nozzle. A .40 nozzle would be set to .48.
I would also set your extrusion multiplier back to 1.00 and try a print with those settings i just suggested.

For PLA I actually run my bed at 90 with great results. On small prints with PLA a fan is a must or you will need to print multiple copies. The idea is to give the previous layer time to cool some before printing on it. Other wise the heat in the print will just keep building.

Based on your pictures I can see some shifting. That would be possibly too much or to little current to the motor on that axis.

Have you calibrated the extruder steps per mm properly? Seeing your settings in S3D I am guessing no and you are having to compensate.

Your pictures also show signs of over extrusion again a calibration issue and some areas look too hot. Have you confirmed what your actual temp is versus reported temp?

I agree with wardjr. I have several SD2s and know that specific printer inside and out. If your nozzle is .35mm then you want your nozzle settings to be 0.42......this adds 20% expansion for the molten plastic. You are getting close, but you need to dial it in just a little bit more.

I also have extensive PLA experience on the SD2, so I have a couple personal recommendations:
1) Get rid of that stock Solidoodle hotend. It will clog irreparably with your current settings especially with your current settings. It does not like PLA.
2) Get rid of the fan on your bed and replace it with a nozzle fan of some kind. You are currently blowing air over the heating block and more import on the thermistor which will throw off your temperature readings. There is a great abundance of fan/hotend mounts on Thingiverse, but since I am typing on a tablet it is a little difficult to give proper links at th moment. But a nozzle fan will actively cool the layers as they are being lain down.
3) Switch to glass for you bed. You are experiencing lifting which can be combated with painters tape or purple glue sticks. Aqua Net "can" be used for PLA, but the adhesion may be too strong causing damage to said recommended glass.
4) Most important.....switch to a metal hotend like an E3D even if it is a Lite6 if not a v6. With a full metal hotend, a genuine E3D, it has a properly machined and polished heat sink/heartbreak to make PLA clog woes a thing of the past. Even with the worst PLA clogs you can simply heat up to ABS temps them ram some ABSp through the nozzzle to clear said clog then quickly pull it back out.

I switch from ABS to PLA to ABS constantly, so I am speaking with empirical observation.

I forgot to mention that 90c for the bed is wwwaaaaaaaayyy too hot for PLA. Try 60c. Machines that offer no bed heater are PLA exclusive printers, but with a heater 60c would be the max recommended. Also, if you still have the stock X and Y carriages then you want to use white lithium grease. 3 in 1 oil if you have linear bearings.

E3D is the brand. There are several models depending on what kind of an experience you want in printing. For single extruder machines like the SD2, you want either the v6 or Lite6. The Lite6 is more affordable, but the temperature has a hard stop at 245c. If you only expect to print with ABS, PLA, flexibles, PETG and Bridge, this may be the hotend for you. But if you foresee yourself printing in higher temp materials like most nylons, carbon fiber, polycarbonate, and the like, then you want the v6. If you chose the Lite6 then you can convert to a true v6 down the road by simply swapping the heat sink and heatbreak. The catch is that you absolutely must change a couple settings in your firmware....depending on which board you have, the process is a little different, but there is a great wealth of knowledge on here to help with that.
Printit Industries offers both kit and fully assembled genuine E3D hotends. For transparency, as you can deduce from my avatar, I am a co-founder for Printit. Other genuine resellers in the US include Filastruder and Maker Farm.
Beware of E3D clones and only buy genuine...there is a massive difference.

one other thing. when i am printing a circle (or tube) when it reaches the start point, it seems it jumps a bit. i can hear the sound of it and the whole extruder and XY axis component jumps a bit. is there a way to avoid this? what does this thing called?

Sounds like you are having a Y shift. If it only happens once then it is more than likely overextrusion.

If you are in the EU order from ed3 direct. They are UK based.
It would really help if folks posted there location.

Been some time since I've seen you on, hope all is well.

The stock extruder will not accept any E3D. However, Printit does sell extruders for Solidoodle that accept E3D v6/Lite6, as well as ones for the Hobb Goblin. Further arrangements can be made if agreed upon. When I was first testing the Lite6, is was in the Beta tester portion of the program as a consumer and it was originally designed to be used without a fan....in theory. So I tested it heavily with hundreds of hours without a fan. I found the print quality was practically indistinguishable from other v5/v6 print qualities. But, it is highly recommended that Lite6 user use a fan especially when using cheap filament. Since the official Lite6 launch, the kit (and our fully assembled package) includes a fan and shroud.

As far as voltage goes, the 12v model is a drop in replacement (depending on your board), only with new wires. The thermistor sensor and Max Temp have changed, so updating firmware is still mandatory with no exceptions. Again, depending on your board, you will need to splice your E motor fan wires with your E3D fan wires unless you are skillful with soldering boards.